“Burnt Orange has no competition in the city”

Sea bream at Burnt Orange in Middle Street, Brighton

I have to admit that although I’ve occasionally popped in for a quick cocktail at the bar, I’ve only dined properly at Burnt Orange once and that was way back in summer 2021 when it’d just opened, writes Nick Mosley.

Hence I was rather excited to pop by for supper to see what had – and hadn’t – changed.

The restaurant comes from the Blackrock fold that also includes The Coal Shed, Tutto and The Salt Room; all venues that are quite rightly renowned in their own rights and have award gongs to prove it.

For a wet Wednesday evening in early November, the place was packed to the rafters which is reassuring to see as the tumble weed rolled through most of the Lanes. Diners were eating outside in the courtyard – admittedly under a canopy and with heaters – and there was a short but growing queue of German tourists patiently waiting for seats. This is certainly a restaurant where if you ain’t booked then you’re probably not getting in.

Burnt Orange in Middle Street, Brighton

I’d say the demographic was mainly couples aged from their mid-thirties and beyond. There were a couple of larger friend groups – such as the German visitors – but on the night that we dined there was a distinct lack of families, although perhaps that changes with lunch or afternoon service.

The ambiance is genuinely buzzy; whether the efficient bustle of the service team, babble of guests or the upbeat but inoffensive soundtrack. With plenty of nooks and crannies, there are plenty of lines of sight so always something – or someone, or someone else’s dish – to look at. To my mind it has a feel of a modern eatery that wouldn’t be out of place in the streets of Soho, Barcelona or Milan.

To be honest, I think the menu feels very much the same as I can recall from my first visit back in the day. Colourful, ingredient-led small-ish fusion plates that are packed with well-considered international flavours. Each dish holds its own but – much like the sections of an orchestra – they work in harmony so there is a composite feeling to the offer despite being inspired by the kitchens of the Mediterranean, Caribbean and Asia. Our server recommended 3-4 dishes per person, so as we perused the card we enjoyed an obligatory dry gin martini.

Halloumi at Burnt Orange in Middle Street, Brighton

The single page menu is divided into four sections. Snacks – nuts, olives, flat bread – are around £5-6 each, starters are in the £10-14 bracket and wood-fired dishes are anywhere between £10-20, with sides sitting at £3-6. To be honest there’s not really a lot of difference between the starters and wood-fired dishes so simply pick what gets your juices flowing as you can choose for plates to arrive together or simply as they are cooked.

My eyes lit up when I saw that the spicy calamari fritti was gluten free. Getting hold of decent crispy fried seafood that has non-gluten ingredients and is safely cooked in a fryer that hasn’t had any grain products in can be challenging – even in Brighton that must be one of the most allergen-aware cities in the world – but restaurant owners Blackrock are really hot on this at all their restaurants. The soft rather than chewy squid was coated in a light, crunchy batter and had a delightful hint of chilli. I’ll be back again for that soon.

A portion of halloumi was particularly well-received. On the right side of the ‘squeak’, herby mint and honey delivered a really refreshing yet richly flavoured dish. As mentioned above, great ingredients when combined in a considered manner can shine without huge levels of complexity.

Glazed duck breast at Burnt Orange in Middle Street, Brighton

We headed East with a plate of glazed duck breast in hot and sour sauce, apricots and slivers of spicy red chillies. Served medium-rare, the duck was perfectly cooked – this protein can so easily get rubbery or dried out in the wrong chef’s hands. The punchy sauce complemented the richness of the meat perfectly.

The highlights for us were the two fish dishes we ordered. A firm, slightly fatty fillet of grey mullet – a much-maligned fish found in UK waters that we export way too much of in my opinion – served on a punchy bed of jerk crab sauce with sweet, tangy persimmon. British native fish, Caribbean inspired jerk and persimmon fruit that originates from China. Yet again, a smart and supremely effective use of ingredients, flavours and textures that sing together.

Overall our favourite was the sea bream, another south coast fish that tends to play second fiddle to the very similar sea bass on UK restaurant menus. Burnt Orange’s sea bream was truly exceptional including the wonderfully crisp and perfectly seasoned flame-finished skin. The base of mango sauce and basil yoghurt worked as a sweet and sour marriage.

For highly creative yet approachable small plate and sharing dining with impeccable fast, friendly and knowledgable service in a vibrant and engaging restaurant environment, Burnt Orange ticks every single box. Its a great dining experience that – despite being open for close to five years – has no immediate competition in the city. You’ll find me on the bar with a martini and more of that delicious squid.

Burnt Orange, 59 Middle Street, Brighton BN1 1AL

01273 929 923 • www.burnt-orange.co.uk