New world wines are becoming ever more popular and innovative, writes Nick Mosley. With plans afoot for a South African Wine Festival in Brighton in September, he talks to long-standing Brighton vintner Henry Butler of Butlers Wine Cellar in St Georges Road, Kemp Town, about why this region is one to watch.
Why have you chosen South African wines as a theme?
We are excited to be hosting a South African wine festival this September. We have cultivated a great selection of South African wines and producers over the years, and realised we had enough to easily show about 60 different wines, covering all the bases: fizz, whites, reds, rose and sweet. It's an exciting time on the SA wine scene at the moment, with many young winemakers making innovative, exciting wines.
What are the main wine producing regions in South Africa?
We will be featuring lots of different regions including Swaartland, False Bay, Elgin, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. They are all found near the Cape, if you happen to be heading that way on holiday.
There are a wide range of grape varieties grown in South Africa, some of the classics such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, then some lesser known varieties such as Durif, Fernao Pires and the Italian variety Sangiovese.
The country offers great diversity in the styles of wines made, but you need to know a little bit about the terrain and where the vines are situated. The big powerful wines tend to come from the warmer regions such as Stellenbosch and Paarl. If you prefer a light and bright style of wine, you might have more success in the cooler climes of Elgin or Hemel-en-Aarde – both regions influenced by high altitude or the cooling ocean.
How are new world producers adapting their wines for a contemporary palate?
In South Africa, the wines are packaged well, with eye-catching and exciting labels. There are often interesting stories behind the wines too. I would say there has been a shift from the big, bold Cabernet dominated wines at 15% ABV, to more food-friendly, lighter alcohol, fresher-tasting styles of wine.
The younger winemakers have embraced blended wines – a field blend of whatever great fruit they can get their hands on. There is also a passion for trying new things, new wines from unusual varieties which makes it exciting for the consumer.
Do South African wines represent good value in the UK at the moment?
I think they do represent good value in the UK, particularly in the £10-£20 retail bracket. Cheaper options can also be found. I think you get plenty of character and personality in the wines, and there is a strong focus across the board on making the wines sustainably.
What should consumers look for when selecting South African wines?
I would take two approaches with this. Firstly, if you find a producer you like, an independent vintner should be able to advise you of other winemakers with a similar ethos.
Secondly, I’d say pick a grape variety you enjoy and try an example from some different sub-regions. For example, Sauvignon Blanc tastes very different when it comes from False Bay, Elgin or Hemel-en Aarde, this might help the consumer narrow down their favourites.
How can people get tickets for your South African Wine Festival?
Tickets are available from our website – www.butlers-winecellar.co.uk – for the event on the evening of Friday 6 September. Priced at £17.50, it’s a walk round tasting so you can taste as many or as few as you like of the 60 wines we’re showing.
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