Review of Stem: “A remarkable and unpretentious new addition to Brighton and Hove's dining scene”
- 1 day ago
- 4 min read
The stretch of Western Road and Church Road where Brighton politely shakes hands with Hove is firmly establishing itself as a go-to food and drink quarter, writes Nick Mosley.
Fourth and Church, Wild Flor, Market, Nostos, Cases, Palmito, Youjuice and Little Fish Market have been flying the flag for a number of years. With Michelin starred Maré and the low-fi vibes of The Well and OnAir being more recent additions – in my mind, the neighbourhood centred around Palmeira Square is currently the city's hottest culinary destination.
The latest addition is Stem, a new restaurant-bar from hospitality supremo Maddy Riches and talented chef Tom Stephens, who you may know from Dilsk located on the lower ground floor of Drakes hotel on Marine Parade.
I’ve never failed to be impressed by their first joint venture so I had high expectations. Dilsk is the epitome of finessed modern British cuisine with a focus on technique-led seasonal tasting menus that are perfectly balanced. And – in my mind – the wine list is consistently the most considered and exciting to be found in Sussex.
So the progression to their second joint venture, Stem in Church Road, was perhaps inevitable allowing them to take the integrity of Dilsk’s offering whilst letting the more playful and informal side of their personalities out to play.
The interiors of Stem hit a sweet spot somewhere between contemporary and retro. Bistro-style voile half curtains at the windows create an intimacy with warm tones of copper, leather and soft apricot paint and soft-furnishings accompanied by hand blown and paper ceiling lamps all no doubt come into their own as the sun go does down. Rotating paintings from local artists add to the visual interest, and I’m sure from a quick perusal of the vinyl stacked behind the bar that the evening soundtrack is eclectic and on-point.
As is my wont, I pulled up a stool at the bar as its always the best place to get a birds eye view of the comings and goings of guests, staff and plates, plus – for the likes of me – a chance to catch up on all the local hospitality gossip. Joy of joy, me old mucker Chris has joined the Stem team so I didn’t even have to order my aperitivo cocktail; as if by magic a bone dry gin martini, stirred with a twist and aplomb, appeared in my quivering hand within seconds.
Chris is undoubtedly one of the most creative and talented career cocktail bartenders – he’d probably be offended by the term ‘mixologist’ – on the south coast, and his presence at Stem really demonstrates that Maddy and Tom are smart operators with a studious overview of current drinking and dining trends.
Stem’s kitchen is confidently headed up by Tom’s former chef colleague Anthony Raffo, who has acclaim in his own right having led restaurants in the UK, France and Channel Islands, including gaining three AA Rosettes at Anglo in London.
The menu is short and snappy; snacks at around £4-6, small plates around £12, larger plates falling either side of £25 and sides at a fiver. Desserts are £7-8 and I noted that Sunday roast dishes are around £20. Pretty much all wines are available by the glass, starting at £6, giving plenty of scope to explore the incredibly well curated list at a price point that suits every pocket.
I lunched with my Argus colleague Steve – ‘the committed eater’ – on a Thursday in late February. I left the ordering to him primarily so I could witness his unfailing excitement when a menu lands in his hands.
To begin, a couple of supremely fresh native oysters accompanied by the twang of gherkin, the sweet grassiness of dill and – joy-of-joy – a ice granita of seasonal forced rhubarb. A textural party in the mouth.
Venison is appearing on a lot of menus at the moment and for good reason. Although some UK deer are farmed, the wild population of both native and invasive deer species is getting somewhat out-of-hand so its one of the most sustainable, nutritious, affordable and delicious meats you can choose. Stem’s deer tartare was an impeccable example of how the richness of the beast’s flesh and quality hens egg can be off-set by lovage – a herb that is making a very welcome return to the British table – alongside the greenness of crispy dehydrated cabbage leaf. Masterful execution.
The star of the show was undoubtably the beef short rib. A calculated playful twist on the flavours you’d find in a popular burger, you literally just had to look at this dish for it to fall apart before your eyes. With the gherkin, grated cheddar and the kitchen’s take on classic burger sauce, it was not only fun but also very moreish. The dramatic bone made it’s way back to Portslade in Steve’s pocket as a treat for his neighbour’s very spoilt pup.
There are options for vegetarians, and the kitchen is allergen aware so will happily accommodate allergens where they can. As a gluten-intolerant eater, I had the choice of pretty much every dish on the menu but obviously flag any dietaries before you order.
Stem is a thoroughly unpretentious local bistro and wine-cocktail bar combo that welcomes all and doesn’t intimidate at a spot-on price point. Maddy and Tom have clearly taken their skills and experience – and brought on board respected and talented individuals who share their passion for hospitality – to create a genuinely remarkable new addition to Brighton and Hove’s culinary scene.
Stem, 41 Church Road, Hove BN3 2BE
01273 435 582 • www.stemhove.co.uk