Embers breakfast review: You certainly won’t be leaving hungry

Eggs Royale at Embers In Brighton

Since opening in spring 2023, Embers has rapidly established itself as one of Brighton’s go-to restaurants with its glorious wood-fired cooking concept, writes Nick Mosley.

The restaurant has quite some provenance under its belt having been founded by restaurant entrepreneur Isaac Bartlett-Copeland and talented chef – and self-professed BBQ obsessive – Dave Marrow who led the kitchen at Terre à Terre for five years. Add to that mix well-known Brighton hospitality professionals Ben Arthur and Lyndon Roper, and you’ve got a rather magical meeting of kitchen and front-of-house minds and talent.

Tucked away in twisting Meeting House Lane, you’ll probably smell Embers before you see it. A gentle waft of smokey bbq flavours leads your nose to the door, where you’ll receive one of the warmest welcomes in Brighton hospitality.

Having eaten many times at Embers, my most recent visit certainly wasn’t my first rodeo. However, it was to their recently launched breakfast service that I headed with my sister on a Saturday morning last month.

Available at weekends from 9am, technically this could be breakfast, brunch or lunch, but I rather like they’ve termed it ‘breakfast’. ‘Brunch’ has become an increasingly meaningless buzz word used with complete abandon by influencers and also eateries that don’t really know what they are. Enough already; give it up.

The first thing that strikes you about Embers is the open kitchen that’s literally ablaze with fire adding not only an authentic flavour to dishes but true theatre for diners. Cooking like this isn’t for the faint-hearted; the chefs are working with the nuances of nature using wood and charcoal rather than the precision of a induction hob. I think its fair to say that the kitchen under head chef Dave is a very well-oiled machine, and he’s clearly sharing his love and professional experience for all-things flamed and Sussex with his brigade.

The slightly industrial interiors of Embers haven’t changed much since opening other than a small additional room at the rear of the venue that would make for a cosy and intimate dining experience. But for me, its alway going to be a high stool at the pass so I can have a good nosey not only at what’s cooking but also what everyone else in the restaurant is munching.

The breakfast menu offers seven choices, although I did note there’s also a board with rotating specials.

Clarified Bloody Marys at Embers in Brighton

I have to admit that most guests were supping on honest mugs of coffee and builders tea but there wasn’t a chance I’d be at Embers – at any time of the day or evening – without having one of their utterly superb deconstructed Bloody Marys. Served straight up in a classic Nick and Nora glass, its a masterful concoction of clarified tomato, vodka, tangy Worcestershire sauce and balanced spice, garnished with pricker of olives and gherkin; truly the breakfast of champions.

For me, the steak and eggs, which is a much more substantial meal than I’d typically have at the time of day but in for a penny, in for a pound… or rather 5 ounces of melt-in-the-mouth pink Bavette. To accompany, sweet and salty pork lardons, earthy mushrooms and a punchy homemade tomato puree; a really well considered and executed combination of flavours and textures. On the side, a cast iron skillet – straight from the wood-fired oven – of golden yolk eggs with a dash of cream that screamed “bring the toasted sourdough soldiers”.

Steak and eggs at Embers in Brighton

For my sister, the eggs Royale on soft, fluffy muffins. What was particularly clever about this dish was that instead of the same-old, same-old boring smoked salmon, the kitchen served up thick slices of soft, silky smoked trout. Also, rather than a dollop of the expected Béarnaise, the sauce was elevated by adding a little unctuous tomato paste.

Whether their breakfast menu, regular menu or Sunday sharing platters, there is plenty here for vegetarians, vegans and gluten free diners. I noted that there is also a children’s breakfast menu making Embers suitable for families during the day at weekends.

Price-wise, I’d say a hearty cooked breakfast with a hot drink or fresh juice is going to be in the region of £20 or so per person. Although not the cheapest morning dining option in town, breakfast rolls into lunch so simply book a later slot. You certainly won’t be leaving hungry.

Thoroughly fortified, as we headed back out to the wilds of Brighton, the restaurant was packed unlike surrounding venues that all looked somewhat sparse of diners so the Embers team have clearly hit on something rather special to successfully extend their offering. It’s delicious, unpretentious and head and shoulders over any breakfast I’ve had in Brighton for a very long time.

Nick Mosley

Embers, 42 Meeting House Lane, Brighton BN1 1HB

01273 869 222 • www.embersbrighton.co.uk