English Wine Week Q&A with Butlers Wine Cellar

Cassie Gould and Henry Butler of Butlers Wine Cellar in Brighton

With the annual English Wine Week in full swing, Nick Mosley talks to Brighton vintners Cassie Gould and Henry Butler about the exponential growth of Sussex vineyards.

Looking back to 20-odd years ago, Sussex had just a handful of vineyards and English wine was a idiosyncratic addition tucked away on a creative sommelier’s wine list. How things have changed; in 2025 you’d be hard-pressed to find a bar, restaurant or even supermarket shelf that doesn’t have at least one English wine. Sussex alone now has around 140 producing vineyards, making grapes an increasingly important agricultural crop.

Cassie Gould and Henry Butler of Butlers Wine Cellar in St Georges Road in Brighton have long-championed English wine. The business was started by Henry’s father in 1979 so Butlers can rightly claim the crown as Sussex’s oldest family-owned vintners.

Is English wine now a go-to for your customers?

Cassie: Yes, we have many customers who come in specifically for English or local wines – often for gifts – or because they’ve found one they love and return for it. 

Henry: English wines are definitely more familiar to our customers than they were 10 years ago. More producers are embracing wine tourism, which helps get the brand out into the market. Lots more customers come in and mention they have visited a vineyard, and ask if we have the wine.

How has that changed over the past decade?

Cassie: English wine has gone from novelty to mainstream. A decade ago, few took it seriously but now it’s regularly featured on TV and cooking shows, and widely recognised for its quality often being compared to Champagnes and regularly quaffed by royalty.

What are the challenges for English wine producers?

Cassie: It’s costly to produce; land, labour and equipment all add up, and producers have to deal with unpredictable weather. Sparkling wines require patience; it takes at least four years from planting to bottling, which is tough on cashflow. There are also a lot of English wines on the market now so there is a lot more competition between producers, which makes it tough as they are premium wines with a price point that reflects that.

Henry: Although local wines appear to be more popular than ever before, it also feels like a challenging market. Prices aren't coming down and many English wines are at a luxury price point. New vineyards or wineries seem to pop up daily. If you throw in a couple of bumper harvests, then there is suddenly a lot of wine on the market, in a world when many drinkers are cutting back.

Is English wine developing a unique style?

Cassie: I would say yes. Overall the zippy acidity from our UK climate gives a distinct flavour profile and it also enables wines to age very well. The chalky soils of the South East give wines a distinct minerality, crisp acidity and bright zesty fruit, sometimes with a subtle saline edge.

Henry: I feel English still wines have improved immensely. Of course there is a streak of English acidity, but many wines now manage to balance that with ripe fruit.

Why buy from local vintners rather than supermarkets?

Cassie: We offer personalised service and expert advice you won’t find in supermarkets. We support small, sustainable producers and source wines that are unique and often exclusive – especially for restaurants where we tailor bespoke lists to complement their menus and ethos.

Henry: If you buy from an independent business you immediately tap into a wealth of specialist knowledge and a broader range of products than you’ll find large stores. You’ll be greeted by enthusiastic, helpful staff who are passionate about their work. It's a no-brainer really; most independents also offer the option to buy online with delivery directly to your doorstep.

Which English vineyards have caught your eye recently?

Cassie: Sugrue makes world-class wines, and the Bee Tree range has been popular in the shop. Breaky Bottom is a standout; winemaker Peter Hall is a pioneer, and we’re lucky to stock some of his beautifully aged wines that are over 10 years old. 

Henry: I particularly like Beare Green Vineyard, who we took on about a year ago. They specialise in making still wines from the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes.  

Butlers Wine Cellar, 88 St Georges Road, Brighton BN2 1EE

01273 621 638 • www.butlers-winecellar.co.uk