Ivy Asia review: “Brighton restaurant transports you to another world”

Ivy Asia Brighton's stunning interior

On a rather hot and sticky August mid-week afternoon darting around meetings in Brighton I was looking for some much needed respite so I dropped by Ivy Asia on Ship Street where I knew the air-con would be good and the cocktails even better, writes Nick Mosley.

If you’ve not visited Brighton’s Ivy Asia before then you’re missing not only a culinary treat but also a visual one. The venue is absolutely spectacular and gives even the Royal Pavilion a run for its money in terms of over-the-top theatricality.

From the richly painted Oriental-esque ceilings to the stunning back-lit onyx floors that take the drama of the restaurant’s mise-en-scène to the next level, every inch is a sight to behold including a rather glorious cherry blossom tree that takes centre stage.

The theming also carries across to the table settings with gorgeous plates and bowls, and what must be the most camp napkin ring I’ve ever seen. It wouldn’t have been out of place on Liberace’s finger as he tinkled on the ivories.

As you’ve probably guessed, the Ivy Asia menu is pan-Asian so you’ve got plenty of flavours inspired by the kitchens of China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea and pretty much everywhere else in between.

As this was a late lunch – and I’d had a hefty fortifying bacon butty on Boundary Road for breakfast earlier – I didn’t go want to go too wild with ordering but with my guest, Little Miss Greedy Guts, accompanying me there was little risk of anything being left over.

Spicy vegan avocado sashimi and Prawn Har Gow Dumplings at Ivy Asia Brighton

To start, a very decent portion of sliced avocado in a tongue-tingling spicy sauce balanced with peppery micro herbs. As I now know, its somewhat of a challenge to eat avocado with chop sticks but I just about managed. Greedy Guts got busy chowing down on a plate of steaming prawn dumplings dressed with black and white sesame and chives on bed of light soy sauce. The menu also features pork and kimchi, and oyster and shiitake mushroom gyozas so on a future visit they’re most definitely on my list.

For mains, a beautifully rich yet rounded tiger prawn Rendang curry from south east Asia. The protein in Rendang is pan-fried to seal in the flavour before being added to a gravy so it keeps its structure. No complaints from Little Miss as she polished off that with an accompanying bowl of streamed rice and stir-fried bok choy greens.

I have to say, I don’t think I chose my main particularly well. Although nice enough – and packed with a very generous amount of duck and lobster – my fried rice dish was a bit flat on flavour. Although I’m highly unlikely to go to the effort of rustling up a lobster dish at home, it really did feel like something I could have made on my own stove and, at £28.50, I’d expect something considerably more elevated.

TIger Prawn Rendang curry at Ivy Asia Brighton

Now – a word to the wise. Both Ivy Asia and the neighbouring The Ivy in the Lanes have never been shy of paper. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten at either without a pile of menus and offers being placed before me so a little bit of research in advance – and maybe signing up in advance to their email newsletter – will definitely pay dividends to both your experience and your purse..

If I’m perfectly honest, eating a la carte isn’t cheap – my starter, rice main and vegetable side dish cost over £40 without drinks. But the beady-eyed Little Miss flagged that in the corner of the main menu there was a mention of various promotional menus, that offer pretty much the same experience for half the price during off-peak, mid-week dining hours.

The Dragon set lunch menu is available Monday-Friday from noon until 5pm, offering a snack, starter, main, side of rice and wok fried greens for just £19.95 with an optional dessert for just a fiver. In my book that’s a rather tasty deal and a perfect way to spend a lazy afternoon of munching amidst rather decadent surrounds without breaking the bank.

Although there was a strangely long gap in our starters arriving – I dare say a change of mid-afternoon shift in the kitchen – service was friendly and knowledgeable. There’s a good choice of vegetarian and vegan dishes; for allergens you can scan a QR code on the main menu.

The wider dining experience at Ivy Asia is very hard to beat; this restaurant transports you from bustling Ship Street to another world. Despite my somewhat lacklustre main course on this particular visit, I’ll be back as I’ve had a lot of memorable previous experiences with friends, family and colleagues. Just follow my top tip to check out the multitude of set menus and offers in advance – whether the Samurai evening package or decadent afternoon tea – to ensure you get the most bang for your buck.

Ivy Asia, Ship Street, Brighton BN1 1AF

www.theivyasia.com