Although we’ve seen a fair few hospitality businesses close in Brighton over the past year, the restaurant and bar scene remains buoyant in the city, writes Nick Mosley. Here he reveals some notable openings of 2024.
Apiary, 50 Norfolk Square, Brighton
It’s all about the honey, honey, at Apiary – a unique all-day restaurant and bar inspired by all-things bee. Owners Noemi and Alistair Bell are passionate beekeepers who have turned a hobby into a business. Open for dinner on Wednesdays and Thursdays and from breakfast until late on the weekend, choose from a selection of small plates from £7-13 each featuring a unique variety of honey demonstrating the huge variety of the sticky stuff. For those wanting the full experience then their ‘A Taste of Honey’ set menu is £38 per person based on two sharing with an optional honey mead pairing. You can also pop in for cocktails priced at around £12. Check it out and find out what all the buzz is about.
The Coal Shed, 31 North Street, Brighton
Not exactly a new opening – this well-established and well-loved Brighton steak and seafood restaurant has been a master of cooking over fire since 2011. Now relocated from Boyces Street, the stunningly designed bar and restaurant with open kitchen is now in the heart of the Brighton action. I visited with a colleague at the start of October and I’m pleased to relay that none of the magic has been lost. Expect the best cuts of meat, fresh South Coast seafood, beautifully plated seasonal and sustainable produce and a mighty fine cocktail list. Set lunch or pre-theatre dining is £25 for two courses or £29 for three courses. https://coalshed-restaurant.co.uk
Pearly Cow, 123-124 Kings Road, Brighton
It’s been a long time coming but the much anticipated Pearly Cow restaurant at No 124 by Guesthouse – a luxurious new boutique hotel property on the seafront – has finally opened. During the summer, I had a nosey around the then building site with manager Adam Rice and it was amazing to hear about the vision and the dedication to detail and quality. The restaurant is open from breakfast until late to non-hotel guests, with the kitchen headed up by chef Andrew MacKenzie who ran the renowned Restaurant at Drakes for more years than I can remember. The theme is ‘fire and ice’ so expect top notch seasonal British produce including 45 day salt aged steaks from £28 and seafood platters from £55 per person, the latter of which is great value in my opinion for Brighton. I’m particularly looking forward to their weekly Taco Club on Thursdays from 3-6.30pm; two tacos and a margarita for £15. You know where to find me! https://pearlycow.co.uk
The White Horses, High Street, Rottingdean
Early this year, The White Horses pub reopened after a much needed complete refurbishment that firmly brings Rottingdean’s hospitality scene into the 21st century – not that I don’t enjoy a bag of chips from Smugglers every now and then. Now many people might not know but back in the day, Rottingdean was quite the place for Hollywood royalty to unwind with visitors including Bette Davis, Errol Flynn, Cary Grant and Julie Andrews. Perhaps even more insane is that a replica of Rottingdean’s St Margaret’s church was built at Forest Lawn cemetery in Los Angeles! Anyway, I digress… The White Horses offers a range of beautifully designed hotel bedrooms – many with sea views – and the ground floor bar and restaurant space is elegantly modern. The menu is bistro-style with a focus on the land and sea. Hearty mains are in the region of £18.
Reading Room, Black Rock, Madeira Drive, Brighton
Despite the naysayers, the long-neglected stretch from Brighton Palace Pier to Brighton Marina is slowly but surely on the up-and-up so this month’s launch of Reading Room in the previously long neglected shelter for late Regency and Victorian lady and gentleman residents of Lewes Crescent is a shining example not only of urban regeneration but also the faith that business has in the future of the city’s seafront. Currently open daily from 8am - 5pm, the venue is serving up breakfast, light lunches and coffee and cakes with a view to expanding the offering next year. Your opportunity to indulge in timeless elegance at pocket-friendly prices. https://www.readingroombrighton.co.uk
Mad Dog Brewery Co. Taproom, 24 Duke Street, Brighton
Originally heralding from Cardiff, this craft brewery has landed in Brighton in one of the city’s premium retail and hospitality locations. All of their beer is vegan with no artificial preservatives and the core range is also certified gluten free making this a genuinely accessible venue for everyone. With an ever-rotating range of ales, stouts, IPAs and pilsners, drinks are also available as flights so you can sample and compare to find your perfect pint.
Amari, 15 Baker Street, Brighton
Literally opened just over a week or so ago and led by chef Ian Swainson – another familiar face on the Sussex restaurant scene – Amari serves up Spanish-inspired plates in an unpretentious ‘taperia’ that is a welcome addition to the London Road area. The food is very much for sharing so whilst dishes are priced between £6.50 and £18, expect to pay around £30 per head. I’ve got my greedy eyes on the suckling pig with black pudding purée and truffle sauce when I pop by next week. Amari is a perfect example of how quality food and cooking doesn’t have to break the piggy bank.
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