Preview of the Crazy Goose

Crazy Goose on Boyce's Street, Brighton (credit Richard Boll)

With the much-anticipated opening of the Crazy Goose gastropub on Boyce’s Street in Brighton’s Lanes earlier in February, Nick Mosley takes a gander.

I’ve got a bit of a soft-spot for this particular venue as its where the Black Rock Restaurant Group story began way back in 2011 when owner Raz Helalat took the plunge and opened his very own restaurant, The Coal Shed.

The rest – as they say – is history, as Raz’s entrepreneurial drive and undoubted talent in identifying and delivering hospitality trends has seen him and his loyal team subsequently open some of the most successful and iconic restaurants in Brighton.

The Coal Shed has gone from strength-to-strength having relocated to North Street, whilst Tutto, Burnt Orange and seafront The Salt Room – the latter of which is currently having a massive refurbishment and reimagining – are hugely popular dining destinations in their own right.

I had a good-old nosey around the very familiar former Coal Shed space at the end of January when I was invited to Crazy Goose’s soft launch lunch. Now I never, ever review a soft launch – or in fact any launch – primarily because they’re not representative of what guests will actually get, but also – secondly – I think its only fair to allow a few weeks for both the kitchen brigade and front of house crew to tweak dishes and perfect service.

The gastropub concept is currently somewhat absent from Brighton – which is surprising to me as not too many years ago it was very much a casual yet quality style of hospitality that many aspired to and I think in many ways the city was a leading light nationally.

In terms of the venue itself, thankfully the glorious feature bar has been retained, but otherwise both the main ground floor pub saloon-diner and more intimate upper floor dining room have been refurbished from top to bottom creating really well-considered relaxed and atmospheric spaces.

I won’t go into too much detail but, from my cursory glance across the bar and list, the drink offering is impeccable. Although there’s an impressive range of beers on tap and in the fridge, nowadays – my very dry gin martini habit aside – you’re more likely to find me with a decent white or light-ish red in hand.

Food-wise, there’s a really good selection of bar snacks, small plates and starters, alongside mains and desserts. The Crazy Goose guys have clearly put a lot of thought into what is on the menu, so I’d term it British pub fayre with contemporary flair. Beef cheek and bone marrow pie, wagyu steak, rotisserie chicken, caramelised onion tart and fish dishes. The highlight being for me the most generous south coast lemon sole meunière that I’ve had for a long time and at a price that is around a third cheaper than I’ve paid anywhere in the past year or so.

I’ll be back to the Crazy Goose in a month or so for a full Argus review, but in the meantime pop in for a perfect pint of Guinness and a natter, a well-priced vino and bar snack or a casual lunch or supper with no pretension.

I reckon that this bird is gonna fly high.

The Crazy Goose, 8 Boyce’s Street, Brighton BN1 1AN

01273 929 079 • www.thecrazygoose.co.uk