Review: If fish is your dish, it doesn’t come better than The Salt Room

The Salt Room's mixed seafood grill

I think The Salt Room has consistently been my favourite seafood restaurant in the city for more years than I can recall, writes Nick Mosley.

So I was happy to suggest a spot of supper on a blustery evening in November with my Argus colleague – editor Arron – and my chef mate Simon who knows more than a thing or two about cooking fish.

Situated in a prime site below the Hilton by Doubletree Brighton Metropole – yes, thats the hotel’s full name and it is quite the mouthful – this independently operated restaurant is part of the Blackrock group that also includes Burnt Orange, The Coal Shed and Tutto; all fantastic restaurants in their own right.

The Salt Room on Kings Road in Brighton

The Salt Room prides itself on using as much locally caught south coast fish and seafood as possible. Inshore line-caught sea bass landed at Shoreham harbour, coastal rock oysters, lobster from Selsey and – of course – the flat fish that we’re so lucky to have in our neck of the woods as the English Channel really is one of the best places in the world for the likes of meaty turbot when its in season. Although on my recent visit I didn’t opt for my favourite Dover sole meunière that would usually be my buttery, lemony go to.

As I’d already had a late lunch, I didn’t want to order too much so we opted for the seafood mixed grill for two people plus a couple of sides. Priced at £40 per person, its a fantastic value dish that is perfect for sharing. Consisting of charcoal grilled shrimp, succulent flame-finished scallops and a hearty portion of crispy fried calamari, its was a feast for the eyes as much as the palate.

For a bit of an extra treat, we added a South Coast half lobster for an extra £35, although Arron quickly polished that off so I didn’t get a look in. The order also comes with pans of steaming mussels in white wine sauce. Although I think the days of the old wives tale that you should only eat molluscs when there’s an R in the month are long gone, clearly December ’tis undoubtably the season as these were big, fat and juicy boys and girls.

Sprouting brocolli with hazelnuts at The Salt Room in Brighton

As sides we opted for steamed sprouting broccoli with hazelnuts – after all, one cannot live on lobster alone – and a decent portion of perfectly seasoned chips.

The Salt Room quite rightly prides itself on the use of their Josper grill – an enclosed wood-based charcoal fuelled oven and grill combo. This is not a bit of kitchen kit for the uninitiated as the temperatures are typically well over 300ºc so it takes skill, knowledge and a bit of chef-fy sixth sense to ensure the delicate structure of fish is cooked to perfection.

The restaurant has always been very allergen aware – I enjoyed a fantastic gluten-free cod and chips as part of their set lunch menu at the start of 2025. Although that dish is unfortunately no longer on the day time menu there’s still a fantastic 3-3-3 menu that includes main courses that are also on The Salt Room’s full menu so there’s no scrimping on portion sizes or quality. Available Monday to Friday from noon until 4pm, its a very pocket-friendly £19 for two courses or £23 for three. I can heartily recommend the grilled sea bream fillet on base of rich and warming French-southern Indian curry sauce.

If you’re still looking for a venue for a celebratory lunch or supper with family and friends, then there are multiple menus – including child-friendly options – in the run up to Christmas including both Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve if you want to push the boat out (and ditch the washing up).

With it’s expansive glass-frontage, even on the greyest of Brighton days, The Salt Room offers an elegant and elevated dining experience. Over the years, I’ve eaten at most – if not all – self-professed ‘destination’ seafood restaurants in the city and I think its fair to say that The Salt Room tops them all for consistency, fantastic service, ingredient provenance and cooking skill. Add to that their impressive cocktail bar and its undoubtably one of the best hospitality venues on the south coast.

The Salt Room, 106 Kings Road, Brighton BN1 2FU

01273 929 488 • www.saltroom-restaurant.co.uk