Review of Chalk @ Wiston Estate: "genuinely one of my favourite places to quaff, eat and wander in Sussex"

Line Caught English Bluefin Tuna, Nutbourne Tomatoes & Ponzu at Chalk restaurant, Wiston Estate

During my too many years of Sussex wine quaffing, I’ve definitely discovered some favourites, writes Nick Mosley.

Although the quality of the wines grown in our corner of the world is obviously paramount, I think there’s more to it than that. Integrity and genuine heart also shine through with certain producers.

One of those is Wiston Estate, on the edge of Washington in West Sussex.

Owned by the Goring family, there is a passion here not just for wine but for people – and that shines through in everything Wiston does.

Now, I didn’t need the vineyard tour. In fact, I dare say I could actually host the tour. Rather, I was here for a natter over lunch at Wiston’s restaurant, Chalk, with my mate Tom, who works at the winery, about how the unprecedented scorchio summer of 2026 might impact those little balls of juicy goodness growing on the estate’s vines.

The courtyard of Chalk restaurant at Wiston Estate

Over a rather impressive glass of Wiston Blanc de Noirs 2018, which is drinking incredibly well at the moment, we dived into the details.

Blanc de Noir – a white wine made with the juice of red grapes – is my favourite style of sparkling wine because – in my mind at least – its the typically most interesting. And Wiston’s is particularly impressive. Made entirely from Pinot Noir, there’s baked pear, greengage, buttery pastry and toasted almond flavours, backed up by uplifting red berry on the nose and a bright acidity and mineral character. Certainly plenty going on, but it’s definitely not heavy – the finish is uplifting and very balanced.

And it proved a pretty good partner to kick start our lunch at Chalk. I was surprised how busy the lunch service was on a Thursday. The restaurant was so busy that Tom and I ended up perched at the bar. To be honest that’s my preferred seating as I can have a good nosey over the restaurant team and fellow diners.

First up was line-caught English bluefin tuna, seared with lapsang souchong tea smoked salt and served with a tuna-belly tartare. I dare say we shouldn’t be celebrating global warming in any way shape or form, but the temperatures of the waters around the UK have seen in the past year or so an increase in species such as tuna that we’d typically think of being from warmer climes.

The fish worked beautifully with the a glass of Wiston’s classic cuvée, while the always wonderful West Sussex Nutbourne heritage tomatoes – marinated with ginger and verjus – brought acidity and freshness. A ponzu and tomato-water dressing pulled the show together.

Steamed Day Boat Pollock, Mussels, Coco Beans, Turnip & Estate Lovage at Chalk restaurant at Wiston Estate

Next up, steamed day-boat pollock with mussels, fresh coco beans, turnip and estate lovage. The pollock was delicate and flaky, sitting above a rich mussel ragu and beurre blanc, with lovage bringing a wonderfully green, almost celery-like note. This is exactly the sort of dish that is perfect for English sparkling wine pairing: the wine is rich enough to cope with the sauce, but with enough acidity to keep everything lively.

Expect to pay around £60-65 for three courses of superb dishes packed with locality and seasonality from head chef Jordan Powell and his team.

Although late spring and summer 2026 have been very tough for arable and livestock farmers, English vineyards are quietly confident that this year could produce a great vintage. Yield may be lower than average, but the quality of the fruit is potentially very good.

Once established, cultivated vines have remarkably deep roots, allowing them to draw water from the soil that many other plants simply can’t reach. Add some pruning, which encourages the plant to concentrate its energy on fruit rather than endless leaf growth, and you begin to understand the somewhat brutal approach to grape growing.

You’ve gotta treat ’em mean to keep ’em keen.

There’s another Wiston product worth hunting out, too: the Estate Gin, made in collaboration with the very talented – and very lovely – Tom Martin-Wells at Slake Spirits in Worthing. The idea was to create a spirit that genuinely reflected the landscape around Wiston rather than simply sticking a Sussex label on a bog-standard gin, which unfortunately has become the rule rather than the exception with many branded spirits.

Local botanicals have been responsibly foraged from the estate, with Douglas fir eventually emerging as the standout ingredient. The result is an elegant, smooth London dry style gin with a delicate herbal character, and refreshing citrus and fruity juniper.

Just a few miles north of Worthing, Wiston is probably the most accessible vineyard of note from Brighton. A quick train journey followed by a £10-ish taxi from Worthing Station gets you there.

Most importantly – as I’ve learnt to my own cost, both financially and through frostbite – you can also easily get a taxi back to civilisation rather than being left to wander forlornly through the wilds of Sussex.

It’s genuinely one of my favourite places to quaff, eat and wander in Sussex.

Chalk at Wiston Estate, North Farm, Pulborough RH20 4BB

01903 877 845 • www.wistonestate.com