Review of Friars Oak in Hassock

Roast pork belly at the Friars Oak in Hassocks

In recent years I’ve had some truly terrible Sunday roasts at pubs in Sussex but my faith has been restored somewhat following a visit to Hassocks at the start of May, writes Nick Mosley.

Although I’ve never had the pleasure of cooking a roast for the masses, when I make a Sunday lunch at home its always a crowd pleaser for my guests so more often than not I avoid the inevitable disappointment of dining out on grey meat, rock hard deep-fried roast potatoes, vegetables cooked to within an inch of their life, watery poorly seasoned gravy and – horror of all horrors – burnt Yorkshire puddings that break apart like crispy polystyrene.

So it was with some trepidation that I took my mother’s recommendation to head to one of their local pubs for a family lunch before I jetted off from Gatwick. Thankfully, my reservations of dining at a pub multiple were rapidly put to bed by our visit to the Friars Oak in Hassocks.

Operated by Vintage Inns, from the outside Friars Oak definitely looks the part – a traditional English coaching house that has no doubt welcomed travellers in need of refreshment for a century or two. Reassuringly on arrival, the car park was full – as was the pub garden – and the expansive interior of rooms was a-buzz with Sunday lunchers.

I noted that the welcome was friendly and confident, rather than the oft-chaos of many pubs where the kids from the village seem to be left to muddle through. Our server introduced herself, guided us to our table and within minutes we had our drinks and given a rundown of the menu, including checking for dietaries or any other requirements.

Roast turkey at the Friars Oak in Hassocks

There is undoubtably plenty of choice, which is always a bit of a red flag on a Sunday as I’d rather see a small, focussed menu that – I hope at least – will be cooked with skill rather than dozens of options thrown together. I’m a nosey diner, so having scanned the adjacent tables, I was reassured that not only did the plating look good but everyone was having a jolly old time. Perhaps mother was actually on to something here.

We skipped starters but there’s a choice of eight. Alongside the expected staples of pâte and soup of the day, there’s also a few more enticing options including a coquille of scallop, crab and prawn, that to be honest I don’t expect to see on a chain pub menu.

The Sunday roast options include sirloin of beef, slow cooked pork belly, pan roasted lamb, vegetable Wellington and turkey breast. Now you don’t tend to see turkey on a menu outside of the festive season but I guess when cooked properly it still makes for a good white meat option.

In addition, theres a really comprehensive choice of steaks, burgers, snacky bits and pub classics to which my eye was drawn as I’d been craving fish and chips for weeks.

So the turkey and pork belly were ordered by the Olds and it was the haddock for me. How exciting!

Fish and chips at the Friars Oak in Hassocks

None of the dishes disappointed, and I feel a little guilty in retrospect that I had snobby preconceptions that they probably would.

Mother’s plate was piled high with properly cooked roast potatoes, thick juicy slices of carved turkey, moist stuffing and a mix of really fresh eye-poppingly green vegetables. Father’s pork belly was a tad dry but with lashings of gravy it was soon wolfed down. And the Yorkshires were a pretty good attempt; they certainly hadn’t been sat around for days.

My fish and chips were exceptional, in fact based on my Sussex munching this year they came a very close second to those of a renowned seafood restaurant on Brighton seafront. A light yet crispy coating that didn’t have that horrible flabbiness that so often comes with batter.

The presentation may need a little more work but I have no complaints on the food.

Roasts are priced in the £20-23 range with other mains from around £18. I can’t fault the price point for the quality of ingredients, cooking and focussed service with a genuine smile. Allergens are all identified on a digital tablet so you can make an informed choice.

Its not something I’d typically do but I asked for the names of our server and the kitchen team on the way out. So well done Hannah, Harvey, Charlie and Stuart; you really are a credit to the business so keep up the good work. We need more people like you at the fore of Sussex's hospitality industry.

Nick Mosley

Friars Oak, London Road, Hassocks BN6 9NA

01273 847 801 • www.vintageinn.co.uk