Review of Lost in The Lanes

Lost in the Lanes in Nile Street, Brighton

With many independent restaurants in Brighton’s Lanes reducing their hours and days of operation, Nick Mosley revisits a trusty favourite that has extended its opening times.

Back in 2017 when Lost in The Lanes first opened its doors in Nile Street, the concept was informal daytime café offering guests a seamless transition from breakfast through brunch to lunch, with fresh seasonal ingredient-led dishes that are bursting with flavour. Open daily from 9am to 5pm this is still at the heart of the offering, but they’re also now open for a supper service on Thursday to Saturday evenings.

I dropped by for a midweek lunch with my Argus colleague Steve, who – as regular readers of Taste will recall – is no stranger to a second helping. He’s a very committed eater so my perfect dining partner as I can never finish a plate and can always rely on him to polish off my leftovers.

While Steve devoured the menu – I left the ordering to him on the caveat that we definitely had the grilled haddock dish – I had a good nosey around the restaurant. It’d been a couple of years since my last visit with a hotel general manager colleague but not much has changed aesthetically.

The venue interiors are beautifully designed; elegantly structured but with cosy, softening touches. With its high ceilings, what could have been an uncomfortably large echoing dining space has been cleverly divided with a hanging wooden trellis and lush plants bringing the outside in alongside the feeling of dining in warmer climes.

Although flexible, tables are mainly set for twos and fours, reflecting the core daytime demographic of shoppers in need of a refuel and groups of nattering friends, both of which were evident on my visit including an author friend of mine who was catching up with a pal – and pretty much ordered the same dishes as we did so clearly has impeccable taste.

Grilled haddock at Lost in the Lanes, Brighton (credit Ellen Richardson)

Anyway, back to the menu: snacks – pickles, breads, tapenade, charcuterie – in the £5-8 bracket that are perfect for informal nibbling with a glass of wine; small plates with British, Mediterranean and Far East influences priced between £6-13; and large plates at around £20. Our delightfully friendly server ran through the menu with us recommending that three small plates per person is the general rule of thumb.

Steve was obsessing over having grilled cabbage – possibly part of another forthcoming health kick – so our first plate was hispi drizzled with cherry vinaigrette and a sprinkling of candied walnuts and micro leaves. Personally, I’ve found the whole grilled lettuce and cabbage thing a bit over-hyped but I have to say this was a pretty good example due to the considered balance of lively flavours. I generously – a-hem – pushed the plate in Steve direction so he could get his vitamins in.

Next up, our large plate – grilled haddock, cauliflower purée, crispy shallots, sage oil and tapenade of paprika-spiced pork. For a £20 lunch dish, this was utterly sensational and significantly better executed than similar dishes I’ve had at restaurants with a lot higher pretensions but a lot less skill in the kitchen.

Grilled octopus at Lost in the Lanes, Brighton (credit Ellen Richardson)

The haddock screamed quality through both freshness and preparation; perfect flakes of white flesh that retained moistness under a crispy skin. Combined with the other flavours and textures – the earthy, woodiness of sage, the rich spicy punch of the sobrassada pork, and silky smooth, subtly sweet and nutty cauliflower purée – it was a masterclass in how to put together a fish dish.

Steve enjoyed grilled octopus tentacle served over an ajo blanco sauce –  garlic, bread, almonds, olive oil – with artichokes. I didn’t sample this due to the gluten in the sauce but it looked a beauty. I did however sample the black truffle crispy potatoes. I’d had these before at Lost and – even as someone who’s not the biggest fan of truffle as a flavour – they are cracking and a real signature Lost dish.

Bombette of house cured pork sausage, prosciutto and Sussex charmer cheese at Lost in the Lanes, Brighton (credit Ellen Richardson)

And now to the surprising – and unexpected – star of the show. I think everyone likes a good sausage, I know I certainly do, but Lost’s twist on pigs-in-blankets is next level. Three chubby house-cured sausages stuffed with Sussex charmer cheese and wrapped in crispy, thin cut prosciutto are pork-tastic. If I was having these with a roast dinner then I’d definitely say ‘hold the chicken’. Brilliantly creative and utterly moreish.

Brighton and wider Sussex is great for dietaries yet I must say Lost really pushes the boat out to ensure diners are accommodated. There are loads of vegetarian and vegan options, and also well-over half of the menu is either marked as gluten free and dairy free or many dishes can be adapted accordingly by the kitchen. This isn’t just a cursory nod to allergens and conscious dining choices; its at the very heart of the restaurant’s ethos.

Having reviewed hospitality businesses for more years than I can remember, I really like returning to venues I’ve previously dined at every now and then. Its fascinating to see if the consistency is still there but also how the chef and kitchen have matured and developed the restaurant’s style.

From this visit, I can say with absolute certainty that Lost hasn’t lost its way since my last séjour. The food and wider dining experience has gone from strength-to-strength. A must-do if you’re in Brigton’s Lanes.

Lost in the Lanes, 10 Nile Street, Brighton BN1 1HW

01273 525 444 • www.lostinthelanes.com