Review of Sunday roast at The Prestonville Arms

Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding at The Prestonville Arms, Brighton

Brighton pubs live or die not by the sword but rather by their Sunday roasts, writes Nick Mosley.

Even having worked in hospitality and tourism in the city for 25 years or so, it still never fails to amaze me how popular this weekly meal is… and how everyone seems to have a very strong opinion about it; if they’d put the same level of thought into British politics we’d probably have revolution.

Brighton and Hove is home to around 340 pubs. That means there’s an awful lot of choice – and competition – for consumer spend not only on a Sunday afternoon but across the week. To my mind, it takes a brave person with a strong vision to take on a pub right now so I was intrigued when a colleague shouted me up the other week to say he’d bought one.

Harry Roper has been knocking around the Sussex hospitality industry for more years than his youthful looks belie having worked at Brighton’s Twisted Lemon, both The Whiskey Rooms and MacMillans in Worthing alongside other restaurants and bars, and ambassadorial roles for spirit brands.

The Prestonville Arms in Brighton

His Prestonville Arms venture is a collaboration with former university friends Ed Shawcross and Max Williams who already have a successful portfolio of hospitality concepts in the Midlands and wanted to expand to the south coast. A little birdie tells me another Brighton venue is in the offing for later this year.

For those unfamiliar with the Prestonville Arms, its elegantly imposing facade sits proudly on the junction of Hamilton Road and Bridgen Street with views down the hill to Brighton station and surrounds.

The venue’s fortunes have been mixed in previous years having seen a seemingly endless rotation of non-committal publicans and – to be honest – a bit of a lack of love. Thankfully, Harry and the team have given the light-filled venue a complete spruce-up both inside and out, keeping the charm of the venue – its still unashamedly a neighbourhood boozer complete with vintage dart board – but adding fresh touches.

Whilst I waited for my lunch guest, I had a good old natter at the bar with Harry as he rustled me up my staple bone dry gin martini. Sure there’s a good range of beers, ciders and wines but this is a pub where you can also get a proper cocktail.

The garden at The Prestonville Arms, Brighton

The Prestonville Arms serve up food every day. From the look of the menu, I’d say expect hearty pub fayre such as fish and chips, steak-frites, roast chicken and chips and the obligatory burgers. Incidentally there is two for one on burgers all day on Monday, amongst other daily special offers.

We settled in the garden, a pleasant oasis at the back of the pub that thankfully felt cared for rather than the fag-end strewn backyards of so many venues in Brighton.

For me the beef and for my dining partner, a quarter roast chicken. Now if I’ve heard it once, then I’ve heard it a thousand times from Little Miss Greedy Guts that she doesn’t like dark meat and only likes breast so she was over the moon that you can specify the part of the bird you want.

We were lunching early doors so our food arrived promptly and they were good looking dishes with thoughtful plating. My beef was piled high – slice after slice of pinky meat that you could have cut with a butter knife. It was real melt in the mouth stuff.

Little Miss Greedy Guts wolfed down her herby (white) chicken breast but raved about the potatoes, exclaiming that they were just as she’d cook at home: lightly crispy on the outside and light and fluffy on the inside. These were undoubtably straight out of the oven and it showed.

I know some people are rather pedantic about their gravy – particularly as to how soggy you want your Yorkshires – so it was good to see it served in a jug on the side, alongside a selection of the usual sauces.

There were plenty of vegetables – roast carrots, an artful smearing of squash and a medley of greens. I absolutely loved the greens – slivers of kale, white cabbage and sweet garden peas for mouth-feel, tossed with garlic, pepper and salt. It was delicious and – for me at least – gave a nice twist to the meal.

I also had a nosey at the rolled pork belly on a neighbouring table, that after some delving I discovered you can have as a roast or a more summery option with new potatoes and slaw. That’s thoughtful menu design that genuinely offers guests choice without challenging the kitchen.

Raspberry, pistachio and lemon curd trifle at The Prestonville Arms, Brighton

As she has no off-switch when it comes to eating, my guest polished off a raspberry, pistachio and lemon curd trifle, which again was beautifully constructed and a pleasing rainbow of flavour, texture and colour.

Roasts are priced at £17-23 but you can also opt for two courses at £26 or three courses at £32. Pleasingly there are a decent range of vegan options plus lots of gluten free options.

Although the Prestonville Arms under Harry’s tenureship is still in its fledgling days, its clear a huge amount of effort – and experience – has been put in to ensure the venue, menu, drinks, promotions and general bonhomie are spot on from the start. This pub will rapidly become a Brighton favourite.

The Prestonville Arms, 64 Hamilton Road, Brighton BN1 5DN

07877 344 729 • www.theprestonvillebtn.co.uk