“Spain on a plate… no ticket required”: Market restaurant review
- Nick Mosley
- 4 hours ago
- 3 min read
Time really does fly, writes Nick Mosley. It feels like only yesterday that I last reviewed Market on Western Road but looking over my endless Word files, it was actually back in early spring 2022.
I genuinely can’t believe it was three years ago, as I’ve always had fond recollections of dining on copious plates of Market’s delicious Spanish food – and quaffing possibly even more copious quantities of Sherry and Rioja.
Celebrating its tenth anniversary this year, for those who aren’t familiar with this restaurant its a Spanish tapas style eatery serving up authentic dishes alongside some with more innovative twists. The restaurant interior is beautiful and undoubtably one of the best themed in the city; the tiled walls, mirrors and gorgeous expanse of bar with stools genuinely transport you from Brighton to sunny Spain.
As regular readers of my column will know, I’ve always got an eye out for a good value meal whether thats just a well-priced regular menu or a special offer. So when Market’s mid-week set menu dropped into my email in-box, my eyes lit up.
Available Monday to Thursday evenings, this menu is £35 per person based on two people sharing. Now that might not sound like a bargain compared to the cheap deals at dozens of other restaurants along that strip of town, but I knew from experience that this would be top-notch so I booked a couple of seats at the pass for my Argus colleague Steve and myself.
There are two menus to choose from: one meat and one vegetarian. We went for the former starting with a cheeky chilled Fino Sherry each accompanied by spicy deep-fried broad beans, plump mixed olives and slices of a mighty fine smokey cured sausage.
The courses landed at regular intervals starting with snacky padron peppers with olive oil and sea salt alongside chunks of hearty sourdough bread with homemade aioli.
Two classic deep-fried croquetas balls stuffed with ham and cheesy béchamel were rapidly devoured by Steve, then a small plate of goats cheese and honey churros went down his cake-hole – I wasn’t particularly being kind or generous, I was just a bit stuffed from an earlier lunch review – before the main event landed before us.
The star of the show was undoubtably the succulent de-boned chicken thighs that still retained a crispy skin over a sauce of reduced soft smoked sausage and scattered with charred sweetcorn kernels. A well-crafted and moreish combination of ingredients that I defy anyone to not hoover up, as indeed we did.
To accompany, al dente tender stem broccoli with almond flakes and a touch of tahini, and what Steve declared to be the best patatas bravas ever; twice – if not - thrice cooked crispy potato with smoked paprika and slices of pickled green chilli. Its a combination I’ve never had before but certainly one to file away for a future meal at home.
I have to admit we were a bit defeated by the time we got to dessert; two whopping slices of Basque-style cheesecake with poached peaches. It looked and smelled delicious but it was decided best that it went in a box to munch on later that evening.
Safe to say that the service was professional and knowledgeable whilst also being friendly and relaxed. The front of house team know the menu inside out and are happy to share background on any unfamiliar ingredients and also tweak dishes when possible for those with allergies.
Market’s mid-week set menu is possibly the most generous and good value dining experience I’ve had a for a long time. I defy any duo of diners to leave hungry. With a bottle of house wine to share, this impressively epic meal would come in at around £100 for two people making it a great midweek treat. For those with a smaller appetite, the a la carte menu is also available all week with small to medium dishes ranging from £6-12.
Market is Spain on a plate… no ticket required.
Market, 42 Western Road, Brighton BN3 1JD
01273 823 707 • www.market-restaurantbar.co.uk
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