Uncorked with Henry Butler: Squeezing Value From Every Bottle
One of the trickiest parts of our job as vintners is finding wines that deliver at a low price point.
It’s quite easy to find many delicious wines at £20 upwards, although whether you find them good value or not is subjective. Finding house wines – or everyday wines which over deliver – is so important. If a retailer can’t get that right, then why would a customer risk spending more?
The fixed costs of getting a standard 13% abv bottle of wine to the UK, including taxes, packaging and shipping now add up to more than £5. And this does not include a margin for the retailer. Whether that be a supermarket or independent shop, they need to cover property and staff costs. Nor does it not include any income for the actual winemaker!
A wine retailing at £7 has very similar costs to a wine which sells at £10 - £15. The difference is once the wine moves over the £10 price point, the winemaker can earn something, which is essential if they want to make a living.
When looking for wine, we sometimes travel abroad and visit vineyards directly. But this is time consuming and costly. We attend many tastings in London, hosted by trusted importers. Importers also visit our shop with wine, and we receive sample bottles from producers. Basically we taste as much as we possibly can, and then finesse our range. On average we say no to 15 - 20 wines before we commit to one we think will work.
This is much more difficult at a lower price point because the winemaker has less money to invest in their wine; lower priced wines have to be made in a cost-efficient way, which can sometimes be at the cost of personality.
However there is still fun to be had finding bottles which might be drunk midweek – maybe more than once – where you just want an affordable, comfort wine that tastes good, without requiring you to think too hard about it.
Here are a couple of examples that we’re stocking at the moment which we feel over deliver for the price.
Maison de Vigneron Blanc, IGP Côtes de Gascogne 2025, France (£8.99)
This is such a bargain. If you like Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio then try this – it packs a bit more punch of citrus flavour. It’s vegan and very refreshing 11% abv.
It is made from quality grapes selected from the Pays des Côtes de Gascogne resulting in a deliciously fresh wine that is also very aromatic and full of zesty citrus, passionfruit and hints of stone fruit. The palate has lots of ripe nectarine and pink grapefruit, balanced with a refreshing lime acidity.
Palacio del Camino Real Rioja Crianza 2022, Spain (£12.95)
This is a really tasty red Rioja with a lot of personality. It balances fruit and creamy oak really well without being over the top. A great value Rioja comprising Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano, the wine spends 12 months in French and American oak barrels. Think ripe dark fruits mix with coffee and vanilla. This is a smooth and fruity Rioja wine with gentle tannins.
Butlers Wine Cellar, 88 St George's Road, Brighton BN2 1EE
01273 621 638 • www.butlers-winecellar.co.uk
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