Fumi: A five star dining experience in the heart of Brighton

Sashimi plate at Fumi, Brighton (credit Honking Elephant)

There are some spectacular restaurants in the city, yet its not just about food and drink but also the space you’re dining in, writes Nick Mosley

When it comes to engaging dining spaces in Brighton, the gorgeous floral explosions of Blossoms in Brighton Square, the retro Italian ‘bella vista’ of Tutto in Marlborough Place and the mind-boggling Oriental pastiche that is The Ivy Asia on Ship Street all immediately spring to my mind with a interiors that whisks you away to a different time and place and makes dining a true experience.

Hence, as a long-time Brighton muncher and moocher, I was somewhat surprised when I came across a restaurant that had never particularly been on my horizon, and now I’m feeling rather peeved with myself because I’ve been missing out.

Fumi is a Japanese restaurant on Circus Street, somewhat tucked away behind Grand Parade and Victoria Gardens. It’s literally in the heart of the city but a hidden gem.

For those of us with long memories, this area of the city was once the main wholesale market for the city before outliving its use, falling into disrepair and ripe for redevelopment. Back in the day, the culinary highlight was the 24-hour Market Diner that provided market workers and taxi drivers much needed food fuel and the likes of me late night post-clubbing bacon butties.

Asparagus maki at Fumi, Brighton (credit Honking Elephant)

As a venue, Fumi is aesthetically absolutely stunning; there are no other words for it. It doesn’t feel ‘Brighton’ at all but rather a restaurant space that would be more at home in a 5 star hotel in London, New York or – as its showcasing the Japanese kitchen – Tokyo. With soaring ceilings, incredibly sophisticated decor and minimalist furnishings, it really is spectacular. It doesn’t get more contemporary chic than this outside of the M25.

I popped in last month for a spot of Saturday lunching with my colleague Tom who couldn’t wait to whip his camera out.

After a very warm welcome from our server, we perused the menu over a hot sake before being guided through the extensive menu by restaurant manager, Minky, who I have to say is hospitality personified.

Now I’m no stranger to Japanese cuisine; I absolutely love it. Having visited the Land of the Rising Sun at least half a dozen times, I’ve had more than my fair share of proper nigiri, sashimi, ramen, yakitori and – my personal favourite – soba noodles. Here, at home in Brighton, we do have some great homegrown Japanese restaurants but I have to say Fumi takes it to the next level.

To start, an impressive dish of perfectly light crispy tempura shrimp. One would think that fried battered prawns would be an easy dish but life has taught me that its just not the case. Japanese tempura batter is typically made from corn starch – or potato starch – lifted by a mix of sparkling soda water and baking powder. It’s a long way from that somewhat flabby British batter you’ll find on a cod fillet at the local chippy. Fumi’s shrimp were exceptional and each and every one made me a very happy chap.

Gyoza at Fumi, Brighton (credit Honking Elephant)

Tom dived into a bowl of vegetarian donburi – a rice dish packed with flavoursome mushrooms – whilst I savoured possibly the most aesthetically pleasing platter of tuna and salmon that has ever passed over my, at times, jaded palate. I simply can’t fault the quality of fish nor presentation; it was a true work of art. As a food writer, it is very easy – and lazy – to enthuse with superlatives but this was astounding. Melt in the mouth premium A-Grade fish, perfectly cut and at the right temperature –which I hasten to add isn’t always a given when it comes to sushi in the UK.

I couldn’t say Fumi is the cheapest Japanese-style dining option in town but it delivers genuine bang for your buck in an incredibly stylish and elevated dining environment. The small plates are generous to a fault; you’ll be looking at paying in the region of £12 per dish. In terms of mains, the hearty rice and noodle based bowls are around the £16 with top-notch sushi and sashimi plates at a similar price. You can also take things to the next level with signature dishes that include top tier Kagoshima wagyu beef. During lunch service there are well-priced bento boxes that include items from the wider menu.

Fumi has it all: food, service and aesthetic – it takes a lot to impress me but I have to say it is genuinely spectacular and one of Sussex’s best dining experiences.

Fumi, 1 Circus Street, Brighton BN2 9AS

01273 064 516 • www.fumi.restaurant