Review of Tern in Worthing: An exceptional Sussex dining experience
- 22 hours ago
- 4 min read
Following their move from Worthing Pier to Warwick Street, Nick Mosley visits Tern to see whether this Sussex restaurant’s new home marks a bold new chapter.
I’ve eaten at Tern on the pier several times, including a fantastic weekend brunch with my sister that involved way too many Bloody Marys. That venue’s stunning panoramic view back to the town and expanse of the seafront and South Downs was as much a feast for the eyes as chef patron Johnny Stanford’s food was for the tum.
However, times change – as do businesses – so Johnny and the team have relocated to a new location on bustling Warwick Street, the heart of Worthing’s restaurant scene.
My regular dining partner, Little Miss Greedy Guts, was otherwise engaged with a – yawn – boring Brighton tourism meeting so I popped The Queen a message to see if she’d like to join me in a carriage to Worthing. Now, this was clearly not the actual queen – nor was said carriage gilded but rather a Southern Rail shunter that had seen better days – but my dear friend has established herself as the queen of Sussex networking so she’s also a fantastic dining buddy for a good old gossip.
I had a nosey around Tern’s new venue and I must say I was mightily impressed. The shift from the mise-en-scène of the pier to a bricks and mortar building could have gone very wrong but I actually felt that its taken the feel of Tern to a new level: excuse the pun but one could say its taken a turn for the better.
There’s clean, warming plywood cladding and simple yet very beautiful handcrafted furniture – and most importantly – two spaces. The main dining room, complete with open kitchen and pass, is upstairs; downstairs is a cosy cocktail bar serving small snacky plates. Its a really smart way to facilitate accessibility so you can have a cocktail before dinner, maybe book for a private event or simply just have great cocktails. It’s the flexibility that independent hospitality needs in this day and age to offer a wide gamut of experiences for guests, no matter their want or budget.
My-oh-my, the cocktails are great and very pokey. I’m a bone dry martini drinker so I don’t typically like too much faff in my glass but in the interests of research I went with a ‘Dirty Little Secret’. A dirty-style martini with pickled radish, it was literally a party in my mouth; savoury, tangy, beautifully presented… it was so good I ditched the wine pairings and had two more with my lunch. Well, it was a Thursday…
And so to the menu. Johnny’s passion has always been for the bounty of seasonal British food. I’ve watched his career develop in Sussex for over a decade – The Pass at South Lodge, AG’s at Alexander House, No 1 Broad Street – and he’s never wavered from that. Where possible, that’s using farmers, fishers and foragers on the doorstep but we are but a small island so sometimes the best ingredients don’t come from Sussex year-round. Its an ethos I welcome as it means not only are you – as a guest – eating the best of the bounty of the British isles but also gives the kitchen the opportunity to rotate ingredients and dishes, inspiring and challenging the chef’s culinary creativity.
The Queen and I – doesn’t that sound fancy – went for the five course set menu priced at £65 which was great for me as I’m a light eater but I dare say she could’ve chowed done on the ten course menu at £120.
To begin, home baked bread with a gently garlicky whipped butter. An uplifting, fresh and welcome alternative to the now ubiquitous Marmite butter that seemingly every chef of a certain calibre is serving in the UK.
Next up, canapés with an exceptional rabbit croquette. I’m a big fan of wild game – due to the beast’s life and diet, its so much more tasty than farmed meat – and this crumbed pulled-meat faggot was bunny-licious, only elevated further by the inclusion of lovage, a much-underused but powerfully herbaceous ingredient.
The dining journey – very cleverly, following the favour profile of the lovage – continued with shredded celeriac and sheep’s yogurt combined with sparkling wine. Refreshing acidity yet supremely light.
I don’t think I’ve had a fine dining menu in the past couple of years that doesn’t feature chalk stream trout. I understand why – its far more delicate than boring old flabby or lazily smoked salmon – but its usually served as a starter course. I loved Johnny’s more hearty interpretation of the ingredient: pan-fried, skin on and served in a rich, umami broth. It was really smart.
The star of the show was undoubtedly main protein course. Perfectly pink duck breast, croquette and cured duck bacon. Salsify provided a welcome undertone of sweet, gentle nuttiness with the punch coming from Johnny’s take on Gentleman’s Sauce – tangy, acidic and fruity. Exactly the flavours that are needed to cut through the richness of duck.
Vegetarians, vegans and those with main food intolerances can be catered for but do notify the team when you book to ensure you have the best possible experience.
If tasting menus aren’t your thing then there’s a selection of bar snacks available downstairs in the £8 to £14 range. Fried chicken, local cheese and charcuterie boards, ox cheek croquettes and – a real favourite of mine – fried gherkins. I love those dirty bad boys. And also check out the Sunday brunch that runs from 10.30am to 2pm. It’s an absolute steal with hearty dishes priced £12 to £16 and a great introduction to the Tern experience.
Johnny is a chef with a lot of integrity, and that really shows with the not only the menu but also the service. There is a genuine sense of a family like-minded professionals working towards the same goals.
Tern is undoubtably in the top ten of restaurants in our neck of the woods that delivers time and time again. An exceptional Sussex dining and hospitality experience.
Tern, 39 Warwick Street, Worthing BN11 3DQ
01903 629 787 • www.ternrestaurant.co.uk
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