Review of Burger and Lobster: a crackin’ dining experience

Lobster and fries at Burger & Lobster, Brighton

Perhaps surprisingly seafood has never been cheap nor particularly bountiful in Brighton and Hove, writes Nick Mosley.

That has always astounded me as you’d expect a seaside city neighboured by Newhaven and Shoreham ports would have fish restaurants galore, as you find on in the coastal towns of France, Spain and Portugal. Perhaps its just that the British are picky eaters – it its not cod, or haddock at a push, and coated with batter or breadcrumbs – then jog on Captain Birdseye. I can literally count genuine seafood restaurants on one hand and of those I’d probably only frequent two.

Hence I had very high hopes when I visited Burger and Lobster with my Argus colleague Steve last month for a spot of lunch and a natter. Located on Market Street alongside The Sussex pub, its a stylish yet informal brasserie style venue, and there are no prizes for guessing what’s on the menu.

It’s an interesting one as they have outlets across the globe: London, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, New York, Manila, Qatar… so Brighton being in the line-up seems a bit incongruous however I’m not complaining as we enjoyed a very pleasurable hour or two with top-notch service and food to match.

As always, an a aperitif to start. Steve likes it fruity so a Blossom Breeze featuring Ramsbury vodka and more fruit than you could shake a yuzu at. For me, I deviated from my usual bone dry gin martini with a bone dry vodka martini made with Sapling Spirits sustainable vodka. As a martini connoisseur, I have to say this was absolutely banging so I had another.

To start, I watched Steve get the dry aged beef ribs in a hot honey glaze all over himself. He is one of my favourite Brighton dining companions as he never fails to eat with true gusto. It was a hearty portion and nothing was left but a couple of stripped bones and a drip of sauce on his chin.

Lobster roll at Burger & Lobster, Brighton

Steve had eaten at Burger and Lobster before so he knew his main before we even arrived. The lobster roll is a classic; a toasted brioche roll oozing with chilled lobster in a lemon mayonnaise dressing alongside fries and a simple yet unctuous lemon and garlic butter dip.

For me, it had to be the lobster which if I’m honest I haven’t had for a long time as its so often very overpriced. As I couldn’t make up my mind as to whether I wanted it grilled or steamed, I opted for half and half. Both were impressively cooked but I have to say – for me at least – the sweetness of the flesh is best expressed when steamed.

In its entirety, the menu is perfectly formed and rather good value. A Wagyu smash burger with fries is a steal at £14. A whole lobster is £37; that is about half the price of a lobster at other restaurants in the city. Admittedly, they aren’t hand-dived by fair maidens off the coast of Selsey in West Sussex but rather come from the North Atlantic coastal regions of Canada. Unless you are a real crustacea aficionado and have a palate much more refined than mine then I honestly don’t think you’d know the difference.

I really liked that despite being an international restaurant group, there’s a genuine effort to support locality and sustainability. When it comes to quaffing there are plenty of home-grown producers on the menu including Sussex wines from Artelium and Albourne, beers from Gun Brewery and spirits from Brighton Gin and Goldstone Rum. There are also a few English spirits on the menu from a little further afield – Ramsbury gin and Sapling vodka – which was good to see as they are great British brands that are genuinely thinking through what the next steps in sustainable drinking are.

Allergens are well-catered for although vegetarians only have limited options. There’s a decent kids menu and also well-priced brunch dishes that are available at the weekend.

One thing that caught my eye is the oyster happy hour. From 3pm to 6pm on weekdays, oysters are £1 each. Bearing in mind you’re going to be paying £3-4 for an oyster elsewhere this is a cracking offer and allows you to treat yourself to a glass – or two – of something sparkling.

Burger and Lobster is a real gem of a restaurant. Its stylish yet relaxed with a focus on amazing service and quality cooking at the right price. Dare I say its ‘claw-fully’ good…

Burger and Lobster, 15 Market Street, Brighton BN1 1HH

01273 254 063 • www.burgerandlobster.com