Review of Food for Friends: “A friend worth keeping”
We really are rather spoiled in Brighton and Hove when it comes to vegetarian food, writes Nick Mosley.
A vegetarian restaurant that has certainly earned its stripes is Food for Friends. The restaurant has been around since 1981, which is quite some achievement in a city where restaurants regularly pop-up with vacuous social influencer fanfare, become the hottest ticket in town and then realise Brighton is a tough cookie to crack. Food for Friends has proved it’s got staying power.
Its location in The Lanes is pretty iconic too, sitting on the junction of Prince Albert Street, Nile Street and Black Lion Street. The glass frontage floods the dining room with light and gives the restaurant a wonderfully relaxed feel.
I visited in August with my colleague Nat. We’d already had a jolly morning of cake, bubbles and plenty of chitchat on the terrace at the Reading Room at Saltdean Lido but duty called so we jumped on the speedy 12X bus and headed back into Brighton.
There is a lot of choice on the Food for Friends menu and I genuinely defy anyone not to find something that floats their boat. Small plates range from £11 to £14 and I should point out that they are generous with a capital G. Nat and I shared five between us – although in the cold light of day – I think three would have provided a perfectly hearty midweek lunch. Large plates are priced between £17 and £22.
We began with the burrata served with a citrus almond salsa verde, Nutbourne heritage tomatoes, toasted hazelnuts and tangy micro leaves. Now, I have to admit that whenever I see Nutbourne tomatoes on a menu, I find them very difficult to resist. Located in West Sussex, Nutbourne nursery grows over 25 varieties of heritage tomato and they are simply bursting with flavour and remind you exactly what a tomato should actually taste like. Chefs love ‘em but I know you can also get your hands on them at The Sussex Peasant farmers markets.
Anyway, I digress: the tomatoes and gloriously creamy burrata, toasted hazelnuts and a zingy salsa verde were a match made in heaven.
Next up the aubergine roasted in Den Miso sauce – a miso with more sugar that lends itself to caramelisation – served with edamame cream and a rice cracker.
With the ever-growing popularity of the Japanese kitchen, aubergine and miso is a combination that seems to be appearing on restaurant menus everywhere at the moment and with good reason. The deep savouriness of the miso works beautifully with the soft, almost silky texture of roasted aubergine. A generous sprinkling of pine nuts brought some welcome texture.
The preserved lemon butterbeans were probably the revelation of the afternoon. I had had my eye on this one from the moment I read the menu and it didn't disappoint. The beans were soft but still retained some structure, with the preserved lemon providing a welcome burst of citrus. Woodland mushrooms brought a deep almost meaty umami flavour that makes them such an important ingredient in vegetarian cooking. Although balanced it was surprisingly rich so – utterly moreish as it was – I’m glad we were sharing.
The warm beetroot salad was another beauty. Roasted red and golden beetroot with tarragon-lime ricotta, toasted walnuts, crisp apple, mixed greens and beetroot balsamic vinegar. There was something wonderfully straightforward about it. The beetroot hadn’t been pickled into submission; it was allowed to taste like beetroot. A refreshing fennel and the crisp apple lifted the dish without overwhelming those deep, earthy flavours. And visually, it was glorious – a jewel box of rich reds, oranges and gold.
I really didn't need dessert but that wasn’t going to stop Nat. She ordered the brown sugar pavlova served with berry compote and vegan whipped cinnamon cream. I have to confess that I don't think I had ever knowingly eaten vegan whipped cream before, but I certainly had no complaints. The pavlova was light with the sweetness of the strawberries balanced nicely by the slight acidity of the fruit coulis. The cinnamon added a lovely bit of warmth too, giving the whole dish an almost comforting quality.
Allergens are well catered for with vegan, gluten-free and nut-free options clearly identified on the menu. If you have other allergies or intolerances, make sure you speak to your server – and, as someone who has become rather more aware of these things recently, I would always recommend mentioning allergies when you book.
The backbone of the Food for Friends menu remains consistent, but dishes are swapped in and out depending on the availability of seasonal ingredients. That keeps the kitchen on its toes and gives regular diners gives a reason to keep coming back.
I can’t help but mention that it was also genuinely good to see some familiar faces among the staff. We were looked after by two of the same servers I had on my previous visit in late spring 2025. In an industry where staff turnover is currently relentless, that screams volumes to me.
The restaurant has been feeding Brighton for more than four decades and has clearly evolved with the times. It serves up flavour-forward, colourful, generous, contemporary cooking that just happens not to require a piece of meat on the plate.
Food for Friends remains very much a friend worth keeping.
Food for Friends, 17-18 Prince Albert Street, Brighton BN1 1HF
01273 202 310 • www.foodforfriends.com
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