Review of Fumi: Jazz, martinis and a little Tokyo magic
I can’t say I particularly have a 1920s wardrobe, writes Nick Mosley. I mean – seriously – who does? I live near Boundary Road not in Downton Abbey.
That said, somewhere in the back of the cupboard, I do have a pair of plus fours and some brogues that once made an appearance at the Goodwood Revival. But rather than attempting to recreate Gatsby’s wardrobe for my visit to Fumi’s monthly jazz night, I played it safe and went black with a rather camp glittering Karl Lagerfeld scarf.
The last Thursday of each month sees Fumi in Brighton transform itself into something rather special – an intimate, Tokyo-inspired jazz lounge with live music, cocktails and their always impressive a la carte menu of Japanese food which eagle-eyed Argus readers will recall I’ve reviewed a couple of times in recent years: it’s genuinely excellent.
There’s something rather appealing about the concept that manager Minky and the team have put together. The restaurant already has a polished and contemporary Japanese aesthetic – think more five star hotel than Brighton back street – but the jazz night adds another layer of atmosphere. The lighting is suitably – and I dare say thankfully – moody and the whole vibe is cosmopolitan and sophisticated.
The room was packed – I really don’t think there was a single seat left for walk-ins. To start – as always for me – a dry bone martini or two to get my juices flowing. They make a mean one at Fumi that’s dangerously quaffable.
Food-wise, everything you’d expect from a premium Japanese eatery is on the menu – sushi, sashimi, maki, tempura and gyoza – plus some house specialties with the black cod going down a storm on our table. I was eating light but thankfully my dining companions – my partner, Lyndsey Clay from Connect Brighton, the larger than life Jonny Salters Monroe and the ever-dependable Little Miss Greedy Guts – had room to spare.
The Dragon Asian Pear Maki was a particularly good looking plate, combining prawn tempura, pear, avocado, shiso and yuzu kosho mayonnaise, topped with smoked caviar and finished with unagi sauce. There’s plenty going on here, but the sweetness of the pear and the heat of the yuzu kosho made for an interesting combination.
A personal favourite of mine, the Karaage squid was another winner offering a pleasing contrast between crisp coating and tender squid. Vegetable tempura brought more crunch to proceedings, while salmon and tuna sashimi provided the inevitable reminder that when raw ingredients are this good – and served at the right temperature – then sometimes less really is more.
What I particularly liked about the evening was that the jazz didn’t feel bolted on as some kind of novelty theme. It worked with the food, the cocktails, conversations and the surroundings. In fact, I’d go as far as saying that Fumi has created an evening rather than simply another restaurant promotion – and that distinction matters. It was very chic without being stuffy.
So if you’re booking their next date on Thursday 29 October, do dress up a little. You don’t necessarily need a pair of plus fours. Although if you’ve got them, this might just be the excuse you’ve been waiting for.
Fumi, 1 Circus Street, Brighton BN2 9QF
01273 064 516 • www.fumi.restaurant
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