Review of Roebuck Estates and The Horse Guards Inn in Tillington:A perfect Sussex pairing of wine and pub fayre

Hake at the Horse Guards Inn at Tillington, West Sussex

For me, Roebuck’s vineyard at Tillington near Petworth is by far the most beautiful in Sussex, writes Nick Mosley.

Trust me, I’ve visited a lot of local vineyards over the years. The south facing vista from the top of rolling field of vines down to the vast panoramic vista of the South Downs is like being in a movie with ever changing plays of light and weather over spectacular scenery. It’s the theatre of nature at its sheer best.

So – as I was long overdue a catch up with the Olds due to their relentless schedule of cruising the world – I thought where better for a chilled natter in the sunny and a glass or two of Sussex’s finest than Roebuck. Every Saturday and Sunday this month, Roebuck’s tipi is open from 1pm to 6pm as a drop-in wine bar with a Roebuck expert on hand to guide you. So slip-slop-slap, we piled into daddy’s carriage of convenience and headed west.

Wine flight at Roebuck Estates vineyard at Tillington, West Sussex

No matter the producing region, my go-to traditional method sparkling wine is always blanc de noirs – a white wine that is made from a gentle pressing of red pinot noir grapes – as that for my humble palate at least tends to have more depth and interesting flavour than a purely chardonnay driven blanc de blanc. Others will undoubtedly disagree.

Roebuck’s current blanc de noir vintage is from 2018 which is regarded as the best year in recent memory for English wine due to the exceptionally warm and sunny summer that allowed perfect ripening so there are now also high hopes for 2026. With an in-bottle second fermentation of around eight years this wine has absolutely come into its own with notes of rich baked apple, honey, spice and the classic toasted brioche flavour.

It would’ve been rude not have a glass of the vineyard’s rosé de noir too. A blend of 2020’s pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes partially fermented in old Burgundy wine barrels, it had a fruitier profile – think red berries with a hint of toasted but on the finish but vibrant and lively. That kept mother quiet – ahem – for a couple of minutes at least.

Roebuck Estates vineyard at Tillington, West Sussex

I’ve been on the Roebuck vineyard tour before and – as fascinating as it is especially when it comes to their commitment to working hand-in-glove with nature – I didn’t need to experience it again although I did have a good natter with host Pippa. For those who do want to gain more viticulture and general wine making knowledge it runs every Friday and Saturday from 11am throughout August. At two hours – including a tasting of wines – for £25, it's fantastic value.

If you can’t make the journey to Tillington – and I have to admit it would be a challenge to visit with public transport from home base in Brighton – then you can also enjoy Roebuck’s wines at the café-bar alongside the Royal Pavilion shop in the heart of Brighton this summer.

As much as I could have very merrily sat all afternoon at Roebuck, we wandered over the fields for a late lunch at the Horse Guards Inn in Tillington village.

I’ve visited a couple of times before and have to say it’s typically one of Sussex’s best country pubs and one I recommend to friends and colleagues.

The building is a picture perfect example of late Georgian slightly higgledy-piggledy architecture with three wonderfully atmospheric public rooms for eating and drinking alongside a very chilled and atmospheric rear patio and garden with hidden nooks and crannies a-plenty.

Steak at the Horse Guards Inn at Tillington, West Sussex

The kitchen serves up an ever changing menu of dishes packed with seasonal and very locally sourced ingredients. Some fruits and vegetables are grown in the pub’s own garden, supplemented by responsibly foraged ingredients, with meat, dairy and fish from small local producers. The front of house team are also a pleasure to talk to – they know the menu inside out and service is with a genuinely warm smile.

I don’t know if it was the hot, muggy weather but nothing screamed at me on the menu, which is unusual as on past visits I found it difficult to make a decision. Bizarrely for me, I went for an 8oz beef steak from Goodwood that I asked cooked to the chef’s preference – after all he knows his meat better than I do. Quite the slab, it was served medium with a salad and bowl of hand cut fries. I rarely eat steak but I must say this was a cracker made perfect with a thin fat strip for extra flavour.

My mother ordered hake. Stunningly plated with potato, tenderstem broccoli, slithers of beetroot and micro herbs, the fish had that firm flakes of white flesh and a beautifully crisp layer of skin.

Unfortunately it was on the cold side of lukewarm so by the time someone from the kitchen asked if everything was alright it had already been half devoured. It was 3pm after all so tummies were rumbling but a bit of a let down in terms of kitchen timings. I should add that the temperature of my steak was a-okay.

Despite the minor criticism, for lovers of food and drink I really can’t think of a better day out in Sussex. Both Roebuck vineyard and the Horse Guards Inn are leading examples of small businesses in our neck of the woods doing it right. And – if Roebuck’s 2026 vintages are even close to 2018s – then this will be an annual date in my Sussex culinary calendar.

www.roebuckestates.co.uk • www.thehorseguardsinn.co.uk