Uncorked with Henry Butler: Fortified wines are summer’s secret weapon
“Don’t be silly – Port is for Christmas. One bottle once a year” I hear you say.
If we go back a couple of generations, a Campari and soda was a common drink of choice. It’s fortified, as was the occasional cream sherry. Does anyone remember a weird shaped bottle in the fridge door containing a sweet fortified wine called Muscat Beaumes de Venise, or is it just me?
I’ll start by defining what a fortified wine is, then recommend three that I think should be staples in your fridge for the rest of summer.
Straightforward examples of fortified wine are Port, Madeira and Sherry. They start their life in the same way as a table wine made by fermenting sugar in grapes into alcohol. However for a fortified wine the winemaker then adds a neutral grape spirit, killing the yeast, stopping fermentation, bringing the final alcohol up to 15% to 20%.
My first recommendation is Dry White Port. If the word Port is on a wine label then by law the fruit has to come from the Douro Valley in north Portugal. White Port is made from a blend of white grapes and can be dry and fruity or oaked and nutty. I would recommend a new Port hot off the [grape] press, Kopke On Ice White Port (£24.49). The producer recommends you serve it chilled with three cubes of ice and a slice of orange peel. Interestingly, it has less calories than a G&T or an Aperol Spritz.
Dry Sherry is a must. It is perfect as a cold aperitif served with quality almonds, olives and anchovies. Really don’t knock it until you’ve tried it on a sunny afternoon in the garden. I love Valdespino 'Deliciosa' Manzanilla 375ml NV (£12.49). This is at the lighter end of the Sherry spectrum and bone dry. It makes a great long drink: 60ml Sherry with plenty of ice, topped up with a good quality lemonade and fresh mint.
Last but not least is Domaine des Bernardins Muscat Beaumes de Venise 2023 (£25.95). Yes it’s sweet but so are lots of popular cocktails. This is made by one of the best wine producers in the South of France. At around 15%, you can drink it cold whenever you want and the bottle lasts for ages in the fridge. It’s luscious but not cloying.
Is say fortified wines deserve a place in your fridge all year round, not just for festive tipples.
Butlers Wine Cellar, 88 St George's Road, Brighton BN2 1EE
01273 621 638 • www.butlers-winecellar.co.uk
I like the point that fortified wines shouldn't be treated as something reserved for Christmas. Port is obviously one of Portugal's most famous fortified wines, but I think it's much more interesting when you explore the different styles and ways of serving them. Dry White Port chilled over ice sounds particularly good for summer. If you're ever visiting Portugal, you could also book a wine tasting here to explore some Portuguese wines in a more traditional setting. It would be a nice way to put the discussion about Port and other fortified wines into a broader Portuguese wine context.
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