The Argus Sunday Roasted: Pearly Cow, Brighton
THIS STORY FIRST APPEARED IN THE ARGUS ON 2 OCTOBER 2026
Each week one of our journalists visits a Sussex pub or restaurant to munch the meat, taste the tatties and chew the fat. Nick Mosley heads to Pearly Cow on Kings Road…
Price: Set price of £38 for two courses or £45 for three courses, served Sundays 12.30pm - 8pm. Long Man Brewery tap beers are available at £6 for a schooner (2/3rds of an imperial pint).
Venue vibe: Pearly Cow is one of my personal favourite dining rooms in Sussex – its stylish and cosy without being overbearingly formal. We were on a 3pm sitting so the venue wasn’t too busy; I’d say mainly a birthday celebration group and a smattering of guests enjoying a weekend by the sea at No. 124 hotel.
Menu options: Three starters, four mains, four desserts. Without being overly fancy, Pearly Cow’s Sunday roast is definitely a cut above the competition. Roasts include a choice of locally-reared roast beef, half roast chicken, pork belly or vegetable nut roast. Lashings of roast potatoes, Yorkshire pudding, cauliflower cheese, seasonal vegetables and ample gravy are included. It does however come at a price.
Meat count: Its hard to fault the quality of the wagyu beef from Trenchmore farm in West Sussex. It's incredibly popular with chefs across Sussex for its consistency so you’ll find it on many independent restaurant menus in Brighton. Head chef Andy is no stranger to it so his beautifully carved meat is pink to perfection, served with a fantastic home-made horseradish sauce with a real hit of flavour. The half chicken was more than enough for one person.
Veg out: Served in a separate dish with plenty of seasonal greens, rich braised red cabbage and lashings of creamy cauliflower cheese that my guest Little Miss Greedy Guts devoured with great gusto. However, some regular Sunday roast fans might prefer a bit more choice.
Roast potato crisp-to-fluff ratio: Faultless. Delightfully crisp on the outside and light on the inside, and perfectly portioned rather than the jaw-stretching brick-sized potatoes that somehow seem to pass as acceptable in many a hostelry.
Gravy rating: Clearly homemade. Plenty of flavour and of a rich consistency. Served in jugs so you can choose exactly how much you want to add rather than have the kitchen dictate, although it was a bit messy that the jug was delivered on the plate rather than on the side.
Yorkshire puds or duds: As my family are all Yorkshire born-and-bred, I know a thing or two about Yorkshire puds. Pearly Cow’s were some of the best restaurant-made puddings I’ve had for a long time. Crispy but with a slightly chewy bottom. They’ve really nailed what a proper Yorkshire should be.
Allergens and dietaries: The nut roast is available vegetarian or entirely plant-based. Most dishes have non-gluten containing ingredients and roasts can be adapted ie. no Yorkshire pud! For specific food allergies – as always – notify at the time of booking.
Family-friendly: Pearly Cow is child-friendly although its probably not ideal for particularly boisterous little darlings. Their ‘Little Calves’ Sunday lunch menu for 7-14 year olds is £16 for two courses or £20 for three. Under 6s eat free with smaller portions which is a cracking deal.
Dog-friendly: The Pearly Cow isn’t dog-friendly however if you prebook then you can dine from the same menu in the gorgeous No. 124 bar area upstairs or outside seafront terrace.
Post-lunch nap probability: With a full tum and a couple of martinis in me, I had no doubt I’d be nodding off on the couch to Antiques Roadshow.
The roast round-up: It’s a roast but it definitely isn’t your standard pub grub; its great restaurant service and premium cooking with a close eye on quality and local, seasonal ingredients, all of which is reflected in the price point that is comparable to other notable independents in the city.
Pearly Cow, 124 Kings Road, Brighton BN1 2FA
0330 055 4531 or www.pearlycow.co.uk
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