Uncorked with Henry Butler: Bordeaux – Left bank or right bank?
Bordeaux drinkers often refer to left bank or right bank wines. What does this actually mean? When somebody uses these terms do they assume you know something about Bordeaux’s geography and rivers. Let’s delve into this in unambiguous terms.
Bordeaux is one of the world's most famous winemaking regions. Its situated in the south west of France and has a long, prestigious history of producing a phenomenal quantity of wine.
The area is shaped by the Gironde Estuary, which divides Bordeaux’s vine growing areas. Bordeaux has always benefited from being centred around a major port giving producers access to markets across Europe. Historically, they were also able to control the movement of wines from other French regions through the port.
The area to the west of the Gironde encompasses the city of Bordeaux and the Medoc thus is referred to as the left bank. The wines here are dominated by the Cabernet Sauvignon grape produced by some famous names such Chateau Margaux or Chateau Mouton Rothschild. The well-drained gravelly soils are perfect for ripening Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine in this area may also be referred to as Cru Classe wines with 5th Growth being the lower classification and 1st being Champions League standard. This classification system was decided in 1855 based on consistent market prices.
The wines from the left bank – dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon – can be quite tannic and structured with elegant blackcurrant fruit and cedar notes.
To the east of the Gironde – the right bank – you’ll find the villages of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, and prestigious wines such as Chateau Petrus or Chateau Cheval Blanc. The wines are Merlot based, a grape that is better suited to heavier clay soil. Saint-Émilion has its own classification system with wines designated Grand Cru or Premier Grand Cru Classé. Unlike the 1855 classification, producers here can be promoted or demoted through regular reclassification.
Wines from the right bank have softer tannins, voluptuous fruit and are drinkable from a young age.
The wines from east and west Bordeaux are stylistically different but don’t be afraid to experiment to find the wines best suited to your palate.
We like Chateau Tourelles Les Bordeaux 2020 (£12.50) – its super drinkable and over delivers for the price. Or Chateau Caronne Ste Gemme 2019 (£21.95) that with additional bottle-aging is deliciously velvety and smooth.
Butlers Wine Cellar, 88 St George's Road, Brighton BN2 1EE
01273 621 638 • www.butlers-winecellar.co.uk
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