Uncorked with Henry Butler: Old World vs New World
Old World vs New World is a phrase often heard in the wine scene. It suggests a competitive edge, but it is more complex than that. One style is not better or worse than the other; they are just different.
Old World and New World wines are defined by geography, tradition, climate and style. Old World countries are predominantly found in Europe, whereas New World winemaking is found anywhere outside of Europe, such as Australia, Chile, Argentina, the United States or South Africa.
In basic terms the New World countries are warmer with more consistent sun hours. This tends to result in riper grapes which are fuller bodied, higher in alcohol and lower in acidity than their European counterparts.
But these are broad strokes. If you’ve visited southern Italy or Spain, you might have experienced 40ºc heat and 15% abv red wine. Likewise, there are New World countries making wines with moderate alcohol and high acidity. Typically European wines have more earthy notes, minerality and pronounced acidity than New World partly because some of the classic European wine regions have cooler temperatures.
European wines are also more restricted by tradition and regulation. If you want to put the name of your Chateau on a red Bordeaux wine, you’ll have to use specific grape varieties, grown within a designated area. There are also rules governing yields and winemaking practices.
In contrast, winemakers in South Africa are generally less restricted. They have more freedom to experiment with different grape varieties and blend fruit from different regions.
European vineyards pioneered many winemaking techniques which have been adopted and refined by the rest of the world. Some of the most famous grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir originated in Europe and are now planted pretty much everywhere.
Perhaps in the future we will have a more refined definition based around climate alone, as climate change creates new challenges and opportunities for winemakers.
Henry’s New World pick:
Bodega Sottano Malbec 2023 (Mendoza, Argentina) £14.50
This family estate in Mendoza is run and owned by the Sottano brothers Diego, Pablo and Mauricio. It sits at 1000m altitude in the foothills of the Andes so benefiting from the warm days and cold nights typical of the region which make for well balanced and perfectly ripe grapes.
The wine offers aromas of ripe red fruits, plums and raspberries. Oak ageing imparts a full weight and smooth texture which is complimented by delicate chocolate and vanilla. An elegant finish, this red is perfect with grilled meats or some rich dark chocolate dessert.
Henry’s Old World pick:
Sancerre Blanc Domaine Jean-Paul Balland 2025 (Loire, France) £26.50
Jean-Paul Balland has handed over the running of the domain to his two daughters, Elise and Isabelle. Burgundy-trained oenologist Isabelle makes the wines, and Elise runs an impressively efficient front of house. As of the 2023 vintage they are now certified organic. They are based in the village of Bue in Sancerre, where the wines are richer than most Sancerre wines.
Their Sancerre Blanc comes from several parcels of fruit grown on different soils, resulting in a complex wine. The wine is intense, it has ripe fruits with floral and herb notes, and a long dry finish.
Butlers Wine Cellar, 88 St George's Road, Brighton BN2 1EE
01273 621 638 • www.butlers-winecellar.co.uk
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