During the 1800s St James Street was Brighton’s premier shopping destination catering for the residents of newly built Kemp Town and wealthy visitors who came to see and be seen in the fashionable seaside resort, writes Nick Mosley.
More recently – as any Brighton resident knows – it had become a rather down-at-heel quarter of the city but over the last year or two things have begun to change for the better. Having lived on Marine Parade for over a decade, I know the ebb-and-flow of the area very well so I’m a good judge of the notable improvement in the streetscape.
Local business people and volunteers have conjured a new-found sense of community pride and it genuinely shows. I’ve had a few wanders up and down St James Street in recent months and the area feels cleaner, more bohemian – perhaps even a tad more gentrified – and I’d say certainly a lot more loved. Its also pleasing to see that, with the exception of the old Boots store, there were scarcely any empty units. A little birdie tells me a food market of sorts is going into that premises shortly.
On my last visit, it was naturally the food offering that caught my eye. Although you may struggle to buy a greeting card in St James Street, you certainly won’t be short of food and drink options. In fact, I find it hard to believe that so many cafés, bars, takeaways and coffee shops can co-exist side-by-side and still make money but clearly they seemingly do.
The street and neighbouring roads have been home to some well-known names. Red Roaster and Lucky Khao, Purezza vegan pizza, Sawadee Thai restaurant, Black Dove cocktail bar… and, of course, the spit-and-sawdust Bulldog bar that has been a fixture of the city’s gay scene since time immemorial.
But I was here to have a nosey at some of the more recently opened hospitality businesses and to have a chat with the entrepreneurs who’ve seen the opportunity to invest in St James Street.
My first stop was Falafel House, and met by larger than life co-owner Hosam Badeen who originates from Syria. Hospitality clearly flows through Hosam’s veins and despite protesting that I just wanted a taster, plate after plate of hummus, mutabal – a roasted aubergine dip similar to baba ghanoush – quinoa salad and more homemade falafel than any man could eat appeared on the table. Everything is made in the restaurant; the falafels are made freshly twice a day rather than bought frozen from the cash-and-carry and it really shows. With six falafel for around £4.50, this really is pocket-friendly vegetarian food thats made with true love.
Next I wandered to the Tiki Hut, on the corner of St James Street and High Street. You can’t miss it as there’s a huge tropical sunset mural painted on the wall that brings a welcome splash of colour to the neighbourhood.
In my opinion, over the years this venue has had a bit of a grubby reputation however new owner Sam Harman has clearly turned things around. It’s still got an approachable pub feel but the vibe is distinctly Caribbean with an upbeat reggae soundtrack, classic beach cocktails and hearty dishes inspired by the islands.
Chef Cinzia Vitale who runs the pub’s pop-up kitchen – The Vital Ingredient Kitchen – wouldn’t take no for an answer when it came to serving up copious dishes so I enjoyed delicious caramelised plantain and a humongous jerk marinaded chicken leg that could have come off an ostrich. With the kitchen open until 11pm, Tiki Hut is a fantastic addition to the street and has a real feel of community about it.
I couldn’t fail to put my head into My Coffee Story. Its stunning window display of cakes, pastries and sandwiches absolutely screams ‘eat me’, and that’s before you look at the full menu of beautifully plated poke bowls, brunch plates and egg dishes. This is a coffee shop that wouldn’t look out of place in London or New York.
Onwards to Hervé’s Café, a breakfast and brunch venue owned by a long-time tourism colleague and well-known local face Hervé Guyat who also owns the New Steine Hotel and Bistro around the corner. There’s no pretence to the offering: good quality locally sourced produce cooked with skill at affordable prices. I think you’d be hard pushed to spend more than a tenner on a hearty cooked breakfast or lunch dish. There is a nod to the French kitchen – croque monsieur and madame, croissant and an impressive rich French onion soup that I slurped down – but I have no doubt that the stars of the show are the full English, vegetarian and vegan breakfasts featuring Real Patisserie sourdough or a gluten-free option.
I’ve had my beady eye on Palladino’s on the corner of New Steine and St James Street since I popped my head into the then building site in late summer. This venue has had many reinventions over the years, in fact I can recall sitting many times in the window with the likes of Brighton legends Mike Daly and James Ledward to dish the dirt over a bottle of wine or two and watching the kaleidoscope of life walk by. Hence its a space that has a bit of my personal Brighton history to it so I’m pleased to see new owner Antonietta Palladino has retained the heritage interiors and also given it a much-needed spruce up.
The offering is Italian café food at its very best: handmade sourdough pizza and panini, Maritozzi buns crammed with flavoured creams and homemade gelato. I have to admit I was a bit stuffed by this point so whilst my colleague managed to squeeze in a slice or two of light and fluffy Margherita pizza, I opted for a scoop of delicious vegan coconut yoghurt. Now they’ve secured their drinks licence, I think Palladino’s will be making waves not only in St James Street but also become a go-to authentic Italian dining destination in the city.
As the sun set over New Steine, I had one final eatery to visit. You may be familiar with Malo from their popular outlet on Duke Street – and their Argentinian steak restaurant, Baqueano, on Western Road – but their most recent addition to their empanada empire is a prime corner spot on St James Street. Owner Mariel Pautasso’s passion is self-evident in her warm welcome and cheery persona.
I guess the easiest way to describe an empanada to the uninitiated is that of a firm, mid-sized short-crust pasty packed with ingredients. There’s the obvious minced beef and onion but also far more creative and tasty options – spicy chorizo, chicken or prawns, Brighton Blue cheese with walnuts and onion… I could go on.
If I still lived in Kemp Town then I’d be popping in Malo every night on the way home from work for a quick and easy supper. Two empanadas and a soft drink are £9 or let your hair down and have a vino or beer for a couple of quid more.
For lovers of food and drink, there are a lot of reasons to take another look at St James Street. Take an afternoon or evening to indulge yourself in a grazing tour – it’s most definitely on the up-and-up.
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