Review of Halisco

Cod tacos at Halisco in Preston Street, Brighton

Preston Street has had its ups and downs over the years, but right now it’s most definitely on the up and possibly the most exciting food and drink destinations in Sussex, writes Nick Mosley.

20-odd years ago it was the go-to street in Brighton for restaurants with pretty much every cuisine under the sun represented yet – even before the financial crisis and the devastating consequences of the pandemic to hospitality – in more recent years it had lost its mojo and become rather rundown with boarded-up shop fronts and a rather seedy offering of late night takeaways and stag-party bars.

Although always consistently good for those venturing out for Chinese dining, the street’s renaissance has been slow but steady over the past six, seven or eight years; it hard to pin-point when the tipping point happened but I dare say that had a lot to do with this road being welcomed into the Brighton business improvement district.

The New Club – on the junction of Preston Street and Kings Road – certainly helped create a welcoming gateway from the seafront but it has been passionate independent entrepreneurs – chefs with ideas, bartenders with vision – that have seized on the opportunity to take forlorn and forgotten premises from zero to hero.

Anchor go-to hospitality businesses now include the Turkish Etci Kitchen, Medusa cocktail bar and the spectacular Nanninella Neapolitan café that serves astounding deli food and – in my humble opinion – the best pizza this side of Naples.

I’ve always professed that Brighton punches well above our weight in terms of cocktail bars and Julien Barnett’s Gungho! Bar is absolutely at the top of the game not only here in our locale but nationally. Only last week, he swooped the ‘Sustainable Practices’ category at the CLASS Bar Awards 2024. I’ve known Julien for years and I absolutely know how passionate he is about not only about sourcing locally but also working with the very best like-minded circular, low carbon, field-to-bottle spirit producers whilst also up-scaling ‘waste’ ingredients from the bar. A well-deserved award and national recognition.

And, of course, it would be amiss not to mention Bincho Yakitori which is a go-to for those in-the-know. From day one, this Japanese ‘yakiniku’ has been serving up authentic grilled meat, seafood and vegetables that have had Brighton chefs and hospitality workers salivating. It’s a rare day when you can walk in and get a seat.

Corn ribs at Halisco in Preston Street, Brighton

My last venture to Preston Street in March took my professional sidekick and I to Halisco for an informal Friday lunch. I’m glad we pre-booked for 12 o’clock on the dot because if we’d got the bus a few minutes later then we’d have been stood in the queue outside.

Halisco is a bustling spit-and-sawdust Mexican eatery run by brothers Ismaeel and Mo Razavi. These two young men – alongside current head chef Ian Swainson of The Pass at South Lodge and Amarillo at Drakes fame – have created a dining revelation. It ain’t fancy but it’s bloody good.

The offering is next level but affordable informal dining – and Tequila and Mezcal drinking – that puts most – if not all – Mexican-esque restaurants in the UK to shame.

Tables are knee-to-knee creating a camaraderie that might be unwelcome in some restaurants but we loved the jovial bon ami of an impromptu chat with neighbouring diners who were visiting Brighton for the weekend. Suffice to say we shared some dining recommendations.

I started with a smokey Mezcalita – a twist on the classic margarita – and it was so good that I ordered a second one before I’d finished it.

The menu consists of snacks, small plates and a selection of tacos. You’d probably need two dishes per person so sharing is definitely the way forward so you can sample more. There are plenty of vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options so nobody has to miss out.

Pork belly at Halisco in Preston Street, Brighton

The dishes land on the table as and when they’ve left the kitchen so get stuck in straight away.

Our first plate was gloriously rich, caramelised ribs of corn with a hint of zing; if this was a sign of things to come then bring it on.

The hearty slab (and I genuinely mean slab) of crispy-skinned – yet melt in the mouth – pork belly was next-level. The rich mole sauce and roasted leek made perfect partners. This dish would put many a pub Sunday lunch to shame.

Undoubtedly my highlight was the cod soft taco. Visually stunning – stacked with fresh mango, lime, jalapeños and a chipotle mayonnaise – it was an explosion of taste in the mouth. Again, like the pork, there is no skimping on the portion size nor quality of the fish.

With four hearty plates – shared between two – for around £20 per head with a pokey Mezcal cocktail for another tenner each we signed off on our working week for £30 each.

Halisco is a must-do Brighton dining experience… it ain’t swanky or showy but there is heart and well-crafted deliciousness in every dish. Bearing in mind that Ian Swainson is also one of the county’s finest chefs, you’d be missing a trick not to check it out. With their menu and wider ethos, these boys will go far.

And I recommend you take another look at Preston Street; many of these teeny-tiny fledgling businesses finding their feet here will be the future of the restaurant and bar industry tomorrow.

Nick Mosley

Halisco, 64 Preston Street, Brighton BN1 2HE

01273 326 563