Review of Kindling

Chef's meat platter at Kindling, Brighton - credit Ellen Richardson

In Brighton & Hove, it's most definitely getting meaty this year with steak in particular being the flavour of the month, writes Nick Mosley.

Despite our city’s well-known proclivity for vegetarianism, it appears flexitarian dining is throughly back on the menu particularly – and perhaps surprisingly – with younger diners.

My in-box is filled on a weekly basis with news of a meat-led restaurant opening, a midweek dining deal or some genuinely inane and desperate PR story about why Farmer Giles has the best beef this side of Angus-town. “Oo aar”.

Although I’m more of a venison kinda guy, I do like a bit of decent beef every now and then and I’m a cheap date as I tend to like the thinner, cheaper cuts. A simple steak that is cooked well, accompanied by a side of crispy chips – not too fat and not too thin – plus a classic peppercorn sauce is a thing of beauty to behold.

Now I’ve tasted some crackers this year, most memorably at The Crazy Goose pub on Boyce’s Street where I dined with my The Argus colleague Steve – ‘the committed eater’ – so as we were due a natter I invited him to join me on a Tuesday lunchtime at Kindling on East Street. I can always rely on Steve to leave no trace when it comes to finishing dishes.

I’m glad I booked ahead as at 12.30pm it was pretty packed with what I’d say was a rather eclectic bunch of diners. A table of ladies who lunch – and could clearly polish off burgers ten-to-the-dozen – family groups, a couple of solo diners who were probably working locally and treating themselves, and perhaps most interestingly international visitors. The word-on-street about Kindling is clearly spreading far and wide.

And I’d say quite rightly so as their lunchtime deal – available Monday to Saturday from noon until 4pm – is unbeatable anywhere in the city. £15 buys you either a flat iron steak or house burger with chips; I genuinely can’t think of anywhere that offers that level of value and quality. The staff were literally turning potential walk-ins away at the door because there simply wasn’t a table to be had, whilst the tumbleweed rolled behind the windows of neighbouring restaurants in The Lanes. And this was during the May arts festival…

Kindling in Brighton cooks on open fire grills – credit Ellen Richardson

As I had my trusty gourmand wing-man by my side, it was time to get serious. Alongside the aforementioned lunch deal, from Monday to Thursday they also offer two sharing platters. I threw caution to the wind and went for their top tier Chef’s Meat Platter; a board of fillet steak, ribeye, grilled asparagus, macaroni cheese, fries, sauces and – what I particularly had my beady eye on – bone marrow with crispy onion.

I find it hard to write about steak as its either good or bad; there tends to be no middle ground. Both diners and chefs have their own opinions as to how a steak should be cooked but I tend to leave the decision to the chef as they’re slapping that meat around all day long.

Macaroni cheese is a house speciality at Kindling, Brighton – credit Ellen Richardson

As you’d expect, the fillet was tender and could be cut through as if it was butter. The slightly more flavoursome sirloin had just the right amount of marbling and fat to create a rich slightly caramelised flavour which I’d put down to the flaming bbq grill in the kitchen. But my-oh-my, that bone marrow not only provided visual theatre on the board but also a level of memorable deliciousness that will live with me for months to come. It's what the word ‘moreish’ was made for.

Priced at £79, the platter is by no means the cheapest of options on the menu however despite being aimed at two diners to share, I personally think there is more than enough for three but then again in this job I have to eat like a sparrow rather than a gannet otherwise I’d end up the size of an ostrich.

Although there are a couple of plant-based dishes this is clearly no destination for vegetarians, however I will flag that from a gluten and dairy free perspective that the vast majority dishes are fine.

At a time when many independent restaurants appear to be – and often tell me – that they are struggling, Kindling proves that a well-executed concept and a limited menu with quality produce and cooking is just what contemporary diners are seeking out.

Kindling isn’t just simply steak. Its simply fantastic.

Kindling, 69 East Street, Brighton BN1 1HQ

01273 536 350 • www.kindlingrestaurant.com