"Visit now before the secret really gets out": review of Botanica at South Lodge
- Nick Mosley
- 20 hours ago
- 4 min read
What if I told you that you could have a slap-up lunch or supper at South Lodge for £40, asks Nick Mosley. You’d think I’d gone a bit ga-ga in the heat?
Well – as I discovered in June – you most definitely can at this five star country house hotel in their rather stunning Botanica restaurant, part of a 4,000 square metre spa complex that opened in 2019.
The entrance is a discreet wood-clad building tucked away along a winding path from the main hotel. Built into a slope, the theatre is very much on the other side where a dramatic two storey expanse opens onto patios and pools, including a restaurant terrace. The ethos of sustainability permeates every element of the build and operation, including – admirably – zero waste dining.
Although my reason d’être for visiting was to experience the restaurant for a spot of lunch, I couldn’t resist a half hour of gentle bubbling in the outdoor hydro pool. I should note that the spa itself is only open to hotel residents and members only – and there is quite a waiting list for new members – however I managed to sweet talk a press pass and after a busy week chasing around Brighton it was exactly what the osteopath ordered. As I laid back on a lounger to dry off in the June sun, unsurprisingly I came to the conclusion that I needed more of this in my life although I suspect that will remain an aspiration rather than reality.
I was joined for lunch by my sister and pal Heather who lives in Horsham and has been a member of the spa since it opened. No wonder she’s so chill when she has all this on her doorstep. Unlike the spa itself, Botanica’s restaurant is open daily to the public which is something I wasn’t previously aware of.
If I’m honest, I didn’t really know what to expect from Botanica. Sure, I’ve dined at The Pass umpteen times under multiple head chefs over the past 20 years or so, and I’ve had some impressive meals at the Camellia restaurant and quaffed more than a bottle or two of Sussex sparkling wine on the hotel terrace, but how would the relatively new sibling fit into the South Lodge dining family?
I shouldn’t have been concerned as Botanica has a very clearly defined concept that has no overlap with its sister eateries, other than being utterly fantastic.
The restaurant proclaims itself as Mediterranean-inspired and there are certainly nods to dishes from our southerly neighbours but I think that the restaurant are underselling themselves with that tag.
The menu is really exciting to read, with well-considered core ingredients conjuring up a taste profile in one’s minds eye; it screams fresh, hyper-seasonal and creative without being overly fancy. From chatting with the service team, menus change on an almost daily basis using the best market fresh produce that no doubt constantly keeps the kitchen brigade on their toes.
It definitely felt like a good idea to share plates so we ordered three small plates (around £10 each) and three large plates (£20-25 each) plus a very well-priced glass of house Trebbiano each (£8.50). Desserts are £10. I should add that the entire menu is dairy free – something I genuinely didn’t pick up on until after the meal. As you’d expect, there are oodles of plant-based and gluten-free dishes but there’s still plenty for meat eaters with pork, chicken, duck and fish on the menu.
Before I dive into descriptions, I have to say that every plate was a visual spectacular. The plating is by no means pretentious nor contrived, but the layering and rainbow of colours definitely played to the old adage that you eat with your eyes.
Almost dessert-looking, the beetroot cured trout with refreshing cucumber, glistening slivers of pickled beetroot and a slightly acidic plant-based cream cheese screamed ‘eat me’. And I did – all of it – completely throwing the sharing idea to the wind. I couldn’t tell that this wasn’t real dairy.
Flash grilled padron peppers served with a smoky, garlicky, slightly spicy romesco sauce were a hit with my lunching compadres. It has since inspired me to rustle something similar at home for a little aperitivo snack with a glass of ice cold dry Fino Sherry in the garden.
Heather was keen to sample the confit duck leg with slow cooked leek, bean cassoulet and smoked lardons. Although this might be considered a more typically autumnal dish, it was hearty but still light enough to be enjoyed without working up a sweat. And who doesn’t like a crispy duck skin? Donald and Daisy, I guess…
Undoubtably the highlight for me was the south coast mackerel with heritage tomatoes, chorizo and fennel. Moist but firm chunky fillets of fresh fish with flame charred skin over a bed of eye-popping, sweet and tangy red, orange, yellow and green tomatoes offset by refreshing shredded fennel giving a anise kick. You’d think that would be enough on one plate but to add yet more depth, there were a scattering of salty, crispy pork lardons. Whoever pulled this dish together needs a pay rise. It was exceptional; one of the best things I’ve popped in my mouth this year.
Desserts are no after thought. The humble – nostalgic – British trifle appears to be having somewhat of a renaissance in restaurants currently, and I’m not complaining. Botanica’s deconstructed trifle had a mind-blowing preparations of raspberry: fresh, freeze dried, coulis, biscuit, crisp and creamy sorbet. It was a level of playful creativity that didn’t fail in putting a little smile of pleasure on my face.
Botanica’s restaurant serves up impressive premium dining. It’s also remarkable value for cooking and service of this standard in a beautiful setting. This is still a relatively unknown Sussex dining gem so visit now before the secret really gets out.
Botanica, South Lodge, Brighton Road, Lower Beeding, Horsham, West Sussex RH13 6PS
01403 891 711 • www.exclusive.co.uk/botanica/