I seem to be munching outside of Brighton more and more, writes Nick Mosley. It’s not that Brighton isn’t short of amazing restaurants, its just that there are currently a lot of exciting chefs delivering great food concepts outside of the big city.
I’ve been bobbing around Worthing a lot this summer and I rather like the somewhat more laid-back atmosphere and most definitely cleaner streets and beach than it’s big brother to the east.
The gentrification of the town now seems unstoppable. It can be witnessed by not only the increasingly varied dining and drinking offering – and what is less than technically termed as ‘coffeefication’ meaning the rise of a café culture – but also the investment in the residential areas. Alongside hospitality, there also seems to be a new wave of independent retailers and makers taking units across town.
It takes a lot to get me out of bed on a Sunday; I regard that very much as ‘me’ time. So I surprised myself – and I dare say my sister even more – when we were on the 700 Coastline bus at 10am heading to Worthing Pier.
Worthing Pier is home to the Perch – an informal café-bistro that always delivers – and also Tern, a somewhat finer dining experience but without the pretentiousness and priciness that is often associated with named chefs.
Now just over a year old, Tern is the brainchild of affable chef Johnny Stanford who’s been making waves in the Sussex food scene for a fair few years, most notably previously leading the kitchen at AA three rosette AG’s restaurant at Alexander House hotel near East Grinstead.
Much like his contemporaries, Johnny’s set menus are packed with local and seasonal ingredients. But – aside from the substance of his dishes and the skills involved – I feel there’s a little more playfulness than can be found elsewhere in Sussex at the moment. I rather like that, as – naming no names – some chefs take themselves – and their food – a little bit too seriously and it sucks the joy out of the wider dining experience.
Having had an impressive review supper when Tern first opened, I was intrigued to see what the new Sunday brunch offering was. The morning was bright warm and sunny – with a festival in Steyne Gardens and kids funfair along the promenade – so the walk to the pier was everything you’d want from a seaside meander.
Tern is located in the north facing section of Worthing Pier, giving a perfect panorama of the south coast. With the ever changing light on the sea, buildings, South Downs and – in the distance – Seven Sisters – it really is a magical space to sit, eat, drink and in a nutshell simply lose yourself.
The brunch menu is fantastic value with sweet and savoury dishes in the £8-14 price range and – thankfully – not a smashed avocado to be seen. I doubt you’d get a fry up in a half-decent local greasy spoon for close to that never mind finessed and hearty dishes created by a brigade of talented chefs.
In a typical contemporary menu style, dishes aren’t exactly described but more a list of the main ingredients that will give flavour and body to the dish. That said, it doesn’t take a genius to decipher that mushrooms, crumpet and ‘Lincolnshire Poacher Custard’ was going to be a twist on mushrooms on toast, and mighty fine it was. Unctuously delicious, declared my sister whilst also noting that a homemade crumpet is a very different beast to a packet from Tesco.
I went for the kedgeree which perhaps wouldn’t be my first choice if I’d been eating breakfast rather than brunch, but I’m a sucker for all things from the sea. It was an utter delight – delicate flakes of smoked white haddock in a creamy base topped with puffed rice, micro herbs and pretty little edible flowers. Appealing to the eye and very comforting for the tummy.
Even at 11.15am, the room was pretty much full with a very mixed clientele of couples, friends and families. From my stool at the pass – I do love keeping a beady eye on the comings-and-goings of the chefs and guests from a vantage point – I was particularly intrigued by two tables. One was a family with three young children who were ravenously devouring waffles; the other was a group of six middle-aged-ish friends who were already enjoying the cocktail menu. Good on ‘em!
On that note, my sister and I both enjoyed a brunch cocktail. If I’m honest, I chose poorly with the ‘Salt and Smoke’ not because of the quality of the cocktail but rather whilst in my mind I’d like to be able to drink bacon-Manhattan-twist whisky cocktails before lunch its a bridge too far for my constitution. My sister however did a better job with the ‘Why did the Mexican push his wife off a cliff…’ cocktail [answer: Tequila]; viscous cherry, the punch of agave spirit and a hearty salty rim.
Suffice to say, the staff are professional but abundantly friendly. As we were sat on the pass, we had a good natter with the team member rustling up drinks.
Adding to the ambiance was a DJ but don’t let that put you off… the volume was low-down but the 90s and 00s remixes were definitely up-beat. It was a perfect chilled background soundtrack to delicious dishes.
Hand-on-heart, there’s nothing not to love about Tern’s Sunday brunch. At around £15-25 per head for food and a drink its a fantastic – and genuinely affordable – introduction to a premium Sussex dining experience and with views of our beautiful Sussex coastline to die for.
Tern Restaurant, Worthing Pier, Marine Parade Worthing BN11 3PX
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