Review of The Golden Peacock

Punjabi Tandoori Chicken Tikka and Lamb Chops at the Golden Peacock in Brighton

The Indian kitchen has been at the heart of mainstream British cuisine since the 1950s, writes Nick Mosley.

For a nation that has traditionally been renowned for its hearty but – if I’m perfectly honest – rather bland and lumpy north west European food, us Brits have embraced the flavours, heat and spice of the sub-continent like no other.

Although now usurped by Chinese food, for many years the anglicised chicken tikka masala was Britain’s most eaten dish, closely followed by lasagne. Pasta la vista, baby.

Curry has been adapted to the English palate over the past century or so but that has usually been gravy heavy meat curries rather than the huge range of street food-style dishes that we’re now so lucky to have at many of the Indian eateries in the city.

Whilst I’m sure everyone has their own preferences in terms of restaurants and takeaways, the recently opened Golden Peacock on Ship Street, opposite Hotel du Vin, really piqued my interest.

Located in the former Noori’s location, husband and wife team Sameer and Mahima Malik, have created something rather special even though they aren’t from a traditional hospitality background. That said, they ran a Deliveroo dark kitchen for a year or so to test their food out in the Brighton and Hove market so they’ve already got a good following. Incidentally you can still order online for the food apps or directly from their kitchen for collection.

The frontage of the restaurant has had a complete renovation – welcoming and modern it beautifully complements that of its neighbour Petit Pois. Inside, the front space is rich purple and green – a nod to peacock feathers – and hosts a well-stocked cocktail bar and a few tables with comfy scalloped chairs which are all the rage at the moment. To the rear is a much larger dining room decorated in warming shades of orange which would be perfect for groups and families.

I dined early doors with my Argus colleague Steve who I never need to ask twice to join me for a review. Whilst we looked over the menu – and enviously at our neighbouring diner’s dishes as they rolled out of the kitchen – a cocktail. It will come as no surprise that I stuck to my usual dry gin martini but my Argus colleague Steve enjoyed a delicious spicy, sweet and a little sour concoction of tequila, triple sec, passionfruit liqueur and apple juice muddled with pickled chillies. A real crowd-pleaser than undoubtedly prepares the taste buds for the delights to follow.

Now I’d already done a lunch review earlier that day so I was keen to keep my choices light, which actually proved quite easy as there are a huge range of small plates with most around £5-7 so – whether you’re sharing or just want to sample a few different flavours – its really nice way of informal dining. We had the Punjabi Tandoori Chicken Tikka; I couldn’t go to an Indian restaurant without sampling that as its such a cult dish. Generous, succulent chicken marinated in yoghurt and spices before being finished in the tandoor clay oven. Served alongside a fresh herb chutney, it was fantastic.

Dal Makhani and Old Delhi Butter Chicken with Garlic Naan at the Golden Peacock in Brighton

However, undoubtably, the star of the show were the lamb chops. Juicy and tender, these little beauties were seasoned with rosemary and garlic giving a really deep flavour profile. I thought at one point that Steve may have actually eaten one of his fingers as he expertly nibbled and sucked his way through the plate leaving little behind than a wedge of lemon and pile of little bones. The hidden talents of that man never fail to impress me.

There are a choice of eight mains with Steve going straight in with the Old Delhi butter chicken. Again another classic from North India, there was no scrimping on the chicken that had been chargrilled before cooked in a velvety, buttery, mildly spiced sauce. An easily accessible dish it won’t scare the spice-averse and was made perfect with a garlic naan bread for dipping and a raita dip.

Meat-eaters certainly won’t be short of options but good to see that over half the menu is vegetarian or vegan. As a fan of all things dal, it had to be the Dal Makani for me. A thoroughly indulgent bowl of slow cooked black lentils, its comforting and moreish.

You can easily eat well at the Golden Peacock for £25 with a drink so its fantastic value for this standard of cooking and also the engaging service. Sameer, Mahima and their staff are allergen aware so can guide you through the menu as what will be safe for you. It was great to see that they also double-checked with chef too.

There are a couple of opening offers running including a complimentary glass of house wine or beer with every main ordered on Wednesday to Friday lunchtimes, and a 10% discount on tables booked in advance for pre-theatre dining between 5.30-6.30pm. Offers run until 15 August.

Unfortunately on this occasion, Steve and I were somewhat short of time – he was off to a gig at Chalk and I needed to stick my head in Lucky Voice for their 20th anniversary night which made me feel old as I was at the opening night all those songs ago. But our lightening visit was definitely memorable and I’ll be back soon for more lamb chops and dal.

The Golden Peacock, 71 Ship Street, Brighton BN1 1AE

01273 329 405 • www.thegoldenpeacock.co.uk