Review of Upper Drift @ Brighton i360

Upper Drift at Brighton i360 is accessed via the West Pier Kiosk on Kings Road

Brighton and Hove’s seafront is undoubtedly on the up-and-up when it comes to hospitality and more and more things to do, writes Nick Mosley.

Yes, there are still challenges a-plenty when it comes to public infrastructure and heritage regeneration but on the whole this spring and early summer I’ve witnessed – and experienced – from Hove lagoon to Madeira Drive a real buzz from operators and visitors alike.

At the end of last year I visited Drift – the casual dining space and bar beneath the Brighton i360. The venue had then only just started with their full dining menu and although not exactly extensive it certainly ticked the box for all ages with crowd pleasers such as pan-seared sea bass, various burger options, nachos, sharing boards, salads, flat iron chicken and – of course – good old seaside fish and chips.

I was particularly impressed with their smoked cheese burger. The patty screamed quality – in fact they make in-house using locally sourced beef – and it was tasty and substantial enough without being jaw-dislocating which seems to be a thing with short-order chefs at the moment.

Six months later, I thought I’d pop back to see how the menu had developed and also to have a nosey at the i360’s recently reopened rooftop terrace, Upper Drift, that is accessed via one of the West Pier kiosks on Kings Road rather than the beach.

The terrace at Upper Drift at Brighton i360

My ever reliable side kick Little Miss Greedy Guts and I headed over on a glorious day at the end of May. There was a bit of a breeze but the sun was belting down between the odd wisp of fluffy cloud so what better vantage point to watch the comings-and-goings of the seafront?

The terrace has been completely refurbished and I must say it looks stunning; think more Mediterranean than Blighty. Most importantly it feels genuinely loved. There are comfy wicker chairs and tables that are suitable for couples and families, whilst larger groups are accommodated on high tables. There’s also lounge-style seating including some sofa areas which feel a little more chic and exclusive so that’s where Little Miss and I plonked ourselves, cosseted from the breeze by a wrap-around glass screen. The perfect spot to enjoy a sundowner… or two.

The food and drink menu is exactly the same as that available in the main restaurant and bar downstairs. Wines start at a fiver for a small glass but – if we’d had more time – then I would’ve gone for a bottle of Provence rosé or perhaps some bubbles. The house Prosecco is £36 which I think is great value when the location is factored in.

But for us – no surprises – it was definitely cocktail o’clock and I know I’m always in a safe pair of hands when it comes to a decent drink at Drift. For a volume venue, they sure can bang out some great cocktails and I can attest that they make a great bone dry gin martini that is way up there with Brighton’s finest. However, the weather called for Aperol Spritz and margaritas which appeared before us in no time at all and served with a smile.

My margarita was perfection; a pokey concoction of Altos tequila, Cointreau and lime juice with that all important well-salted rim that made for perfect sipping on a sunny day. Little Miss dived into an ever-fashionable spritz.

As above, you can order anything from the main Drift food menu but as we’d done a lunch review earlier and had another date at Pearly Cow later that evening, we had a refresh tasting of some of the small plates which are in the £7.50 to £11 price bracket and perfect for shared, leisurely nibbling.

Spicy margarita and a selection of small plates at Upper Drift at Brighton i360

Little Miss was straight into the fish tacos which at £11 are the most expensive of the small dishes. Crispy goujons of lightly battered white fish smothered in a tangy lime chipotle and herby-garlicky mojo verde sauce in hand-sized soft tacos. The verdict was a supremely fresh and flavoursome summer dish.

The honey roasted chorizo was exceptional. Unfortunately its all too common – in the UK at least – that venues serve up cheap, fatty chorizo but there was no scrimping on quality at Drift. This was a masterpiece of sausage-ry and as good – if not better – than any Spanish restaurant in the city that I’ve dined at in the past year.

My Upper Drift bites super star was undoubtably the corn ribs. Although not quite at the level of Halisco on Preston Street who in my humble opinion are gold standard, they came a very close second. A little on the soft side perhaps, the butter and chilli smothered grilled kernels were still a mouth-popping sensation.

Night Cap, who now operate the Brighton i360 and its wider hospitality offering, have taken their hospitality experience and a lot of time to look and understand the Brighton marketplace unlike the knee-jerk desperate decisions of the original attraction operator. Whilst it can’t be ignored, I don’t think any of us want to reopen that can of worms but this key attraction is undoubtedly now in very safe hands and – even if a ride in the pod isn’t your thing – it should undoubtedly be on your to-visit list for an elevated drinking and casual dining experience.

This summer, you won’t find me ‘at the bar’… you’re much more likely to find me on the terrace at Upper Drift.

Upper Drift, Brighton i360, 128 Kings Road, Brighton BN1 2LN

www.driftbarandkitchen.co.uk