Uncorked with Henry Butler: “I don’t like Chardonnay but I love Chablis”

Henry Butler of Butlers Wine Cellar in Brighton

“I don’t like Chardonnay but I love Chablis”. Wine shops across the country endlessly hear this phrase from shoppers but the statement is purely and simply contradictory.

Chablis is a wine which has to be made from 100% Chardonnay fruit. 

What I think has generally happened is that drinkers have had a bad experience with a rich, buttery, heavily oaked Chardonnay, triggering a knee jerk reaction that has then made them reject all wines made from the Chardonnay grape. This is a mistake! After all, if you had a poor sandwich in a café, would you then dismiss all butties?

Chardonnay is a very versatile grape variety. Its loved by viticulturists – those heroes who tend and grow the vines – because it adapts to a broad range of climates. Once in the winery, it can be turned into sparkling wine, dry white wine, light or rich and barrel-aged wines, or sweet wine. And Chablis is possibly one of the purest expressions of Chardonnay.

Chablis is a region in north Burgundy. By law, wines are required to use Chardonnay grapes yet typically Chardonnay is not written on the label. It is assumed that the consumer already knows this.

The grapes are grown on Kimmeridgian soil, which is an ancient, fossil rich soil that gives Chablis its unique taste: a light, crisp, dry wine that is predominantly unoaked. 

There are everyday wines from Chablis and superstar Chablis but all carry the regional name. Therefore the producer name is important. My tip is to try a few different producers to find the style you like then explore similar winemakers.

Chablis is classified – listing broadly in order of price and quality – Petit Chablis, Chablis, Premier Cru and – at the top of the tree – Grand Cru. What should you expect from each classification?

‘Petit Chablis’ is the most affordable but the lightest and simplest in flavour. ‘Chablis’ represents the house style and can be drunk over a five year period. ‘Premier Cru’ comes from a selection of small geographical areas and they generally cost £25 upwards but have more complexity and can be drunk over 15 years. ‘Grand Cru’ is made from fruit grown from just seven exceptional sites – these wines require time to reach their full potential and reward over a twenty year period.

On our shelves at the moment my current favourites are Domaine Nathalie et Gilles Fevre Chablis (£26.50) and Jean Paul and Benoit Droin Chablis (£41.95). 

Butlers Wine Cellar, 88 St George's Road, Brighton BN2 1EE

01273 621 638 • www.butlers-winecellar.co.uk