Dosa Kingdom is “the best kept dining secret in the city”
We typically print my The Argus reviews in the order that I actually do them, writes Nick Mosley.
It’s a rare occurrence that I deviate from that plan however this week that’s exactly what I am going to do after experiencing the most astounding lunch in Portslade, of all places. I’m genuinely giddy with excitement to share it with you.
A long-time favourite of my gourmet friend Andrew – and gourmand friend Steve – I’d heard a lot about Dosa Kingdom but never managed to drag myself there despite my love of Indian food and it being a mere stones throw from home.
I met with friends – my BITE Sussex colleague Nat, her husband Mike and my very own Dutchie Ron – on Tuesday for a sharp half at The Blue Anchor before heading over the road to Dosa Kingdom. You can’t miss it – the restaurant façade is more orange than Donald Trump’s make-up.
The restaurant interior is simple: plenty of cosy banquette seating, a bit of greenery – although admittedly it is plastic but I guess that’s part of the charm – and warm tones.
With drinks ordered, a bottle of house white wine – conveniently served with a pint glass as wine glasses are so last year – and a whopping bottle of Kingfisher lager, we got our heads stuck into the menu.
As you may have guessed already, the stars of the show at Dosa Kingdom are dosas. I’m obsessed with these utterly delicious Indian pancakes. Made from a mix of fermented rice and lentils they are – hoorah! – naturally gluten free.
Although eaten across the subcontinent – primarily as a breakfast dish – they are particularly renowned in the southern state of Kerala and India’s southerly neighbour, the island of Sri Lanka. You can stuff them with pretty much anything but the classic is masala spiced potatoes and I must say when I was on my grand tour of India last year, I pretty much lived on these for six weeks.
There’s plenty more on the menu at Dosa Kingdom though. The boys – Mike and Ron – were both drawn to the mutton thali. Thalis are a great way to enjoy lots of different small dishes, chutneys and dals plus rice, poppadom and bread – and a sweet Payasam dessert – all on one plate.
The lamb curry was spicy but balanced with tender yet still structured chunks of meat. The paratha flatbread made for the perfect bedfellow to mop up all the flavour-packed gravy. Priced at £13.99 for lunch, this represented astounding value. And, to be honest, at £17.99 in the evenings it still knocks the socks off the competition.
As our resident vegetarian, Nat ordered up palak paneer – cheese in a rich spinach sauce – with a substantial chilli and garlic naan that packed a punch; it was definitely not for the faint hearted. Now I know Nat loves her spice but I could see the heat rising in her face. None-the-less this bread and curry duo was wolfed down with gusto.
And for little ol’ me, a steaming crispy dosa stuffed with masala potatoes, cheese and green chillies. I don’t like using superlatives in reviews but this was absolutely sensational. I’d even go as far to say it was better than any dosa I had in India whether on the side of the road or in one of the five star hotels that I ‘discovered’ myself in. I can give or take the coconut and tomato chutneys but I could quaff lentil and vegetable sambar – a thin gravy with spices, tamarind and curry leaves – by the bucket. Meant for dipping or pouring over the dosa, this was deee-licious with a capital ‘D’.
As anyone who knows me well will attest, I’m not the biggest of eaters. So you could’ve heard a pin drop around our table when I ordered a second cheese dosa and scoffed that down.
We paid £105 for four including more food than we could eat, drinks and service. That equates to £26.50 each.
I signed off my day with something I’ve never, ever done before. My lunch was so good that I also ordered takeaway from Dosa Kingdom for supper to share with my sister. If I scored restaurants then Dosa Kingdom would be a 10 out of 10 for quality, taste and bang for your buck. Visit now before the best kept dining secret in the city is truly out.
Dosa Kingdom, 7 Boundary Road, Hove BN3 4EH
01273 530 913 • www.dosakingdomonline.co.uk
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