Uncorked with Henry Butler: "What is an orange wine?"

Henry Butler of Butlers Wine Cellar in Brighton

Let’s get the basics out of the way first, it definitely isn’t made from oranges and no orange flavourings have been added. It’s named orange or amber because of the colour. Orange wines aren’t white, pink or red. They’re made from white grape varieties using techniques more commonly used with red wine production.

Traditional white wine is made from grapes which are pressed before separating the free-run juice from the skins before fermentation. For the production of orange wine, white grapes are crushed, the juice is then allowed to macerate on the skins, pips and sometimes stalks. This could happen over a period of hours, days, weeks or even months. This process draws colour from the skins and extracts tannins, which is the drying sensation you experience with some red wines.

This technique has been practised in Georgia for over 5,000 years. Winemakers bury their orange wine in clay vessels called Qvevris underground for many months. The result is complex, exotic and food-friendly wines.

Orange wines aren’t for everyone. They are labour-intensive so are generally not cheap. Poor examples can taste like a disappointing cider. For me, the best wines use aromatic grape varieties – I find there is then a better balance between fruit and the savoury notes which are synonymous with orange wines. I feel that however a wine is made it should retain a sense of place and the character of the grapes used, but sometimes this can be masked by the process.

Orange wines are food-friendly – they match many dishes – and they are definitely well worth experimenting with. Here are two of my current favourites.

Pierre & Antonin Petit Sauvage Orange Organic 2025, France (£16.95)

Made by Pierre & Antonin, Petit Sauvage is a perfect expression of their commitment to sustainable, low-intervention winemaking. Working in the vineyards around Carcassonne, they farm organically preserving soil health and biodiversity.

The region’s unique position between Atlantic and Mediterranean influences brings warm, flavour-building days alongside cooling winds and elevation, helping to retain freshness and balance.

The wine is made from Souvignier Gris, a hardy variety perfectly suited to this environment, and is produced with minimal intervention and no added sulphites. It is dry, crisp and lightly aromatic, with notes of citrus, pear and subtle herbal hints. The palate is fresh and clean, with a gentle texture and a bright, refreshing finish that keeps the wine lively and highly drinkable.

Kokomo Winery Breaking Bread Marmalade 2024, United States (£26.50)

This is a vibrant orange wine with a golden hue and aromas of mandarin, apricot, and orange blossom. On the palate, it is textured and creamy with notes of stone fruit, balanced by zesty acidity and a gentle tannic grip. A fresh yet complex wine that pairs beautifully with aged cheeses or rich vegetarian dishes.

This is a side project for the Kokomo WInery, who make exceptional wines in California. It’s such a delicious, luscious wine.

Butlers Wine Cellar, 88 St George's Road, Brighton BN2 1EE

01273 621 638 • www.butlers-winecellar.co.uk