Nick Mosley talks to Aoife Sweeney – co-owner of La Choza restaurant in Gloucester Road, Brighton – and new head chef Mario Hernández – about what what makes the authentic Mexican kitchen hot stuff.
You’ve now been rustling up Mexican food in Brighton for over a decade – tell us a bit about the La Choza story?
Aoife: My friend Annie and I set up La Choza on Gloucester Road in North Laine in 2012. We’d travelled to Mexico extensively and loved the food and culture so really wanted to share our passion here in Brighton. We were single mums with young daughters – both of which have gone on to work with us in the business.
It’s been a rollercoaster of a ride. Rocking up at the Glastonbury music festival with our Airstream trailer, featuring on the BBC’s Britain’s Top Takeaways show, and opening – then, unfortunately, closing during the pandemic – a second outlet on Western Road. Being a proudly independent restaurant with heart isn’t easy but we’ve faced up to the challenges and – I think – come out stronger as a business.
What makes La Choza a destination Mexican restaurant in Brighton?
Aoife: We were one of the first Mexican street food restaurants to open in Brighton. Annie and I really wanted to bring the colour, culture, taste – and fun – of Mexico to Brighton.
La Choza translates as a hut or shack which is exactly the unpretentious and accessible, good times and great vibes we wanted to share in Brighton. A vibrant atmosphere that all ages can afford and enjoy with super tasting authentic Mexican food, great cocktails packed with delicious Mezcals and Tequilas. Our food is made fresh every day with the super ingredients – and locally and seasonally sourced wherever possible – to ensure continuity with our offering and our team’s passion to offer the best we can.
Although your menu has a core offering, what inspires the specials on your menu?
Aoife: Annie and I travel to Mexico as much as possible; exploring different regions of this amazingly varied country and bring back culinary ideas to use in our ever-rotating menu whilst also ensuring we’re including market-fresh and Sussex grown, farmed and fished ingredients.
Although we always stay true to our core menu – consistency is so important for a restaurant and the expectations of our regular guests – we actively encourage our kitchen and bar team to throw out new ideas and get creative.
We weren’t afraid to add goat meat quesabirria to our menu after trying in Guadalajara; its now one of our biggest selling dishes.
Mexico isn’t shy when it comes to festivals and parties so we really want to share that in Brighton. From one day to the next, diners will have a pick of creative and exciting but always heartfelt and authentic dishes.
How do accommodate accessible family dining, dietaries and allergens at the restaurant?
Aoife: Since day one, we’ve strived to cater for everyone at La Choza. Some of our diners are super chilli heads but equally we know that not everyone wants – or can cope with (!) – high levels of heat so our guests can select the level of spiciness when they build their individual dishes. With our flexible style of cooking, we can easily adapt dishes for vegans or those with gluten allergies.
Kids love our venue – no doubt because its really fun and they are actively encouraged to use their fingers rather than a boring old knife and fork. Our kitchen team can adapt any dish, even for the pickiest of little eaters.
Are you pocket-friendly at a time when wallets are challenged?
Aoife: We are still as affordable as we can possibly be without cutting corners on the quality.
I can’t pretend its not challenging for a business like ours with the current economic climate but from day one we’ve always wanted to keep the La Choza experience accessible for everyone.
We know the cost of living is a struggle for many but that shouldn’t mean people can’t go out for a tasty meal and enjoy quality time with friends and family. We’re launching a fast and affordable lunch menu in November, and our Margarita Mondays returns at the end of October with two drinks for a very affordable £12.
Mario, you’ve just joined La Choza as head chef. Tell us a bit about your journey…
Mario: I’m from Aguascalientes in central Mexico. My passion for food started when I was a child, cooking alongside my mum my favourite dish Huevos Rancheros.
I’ve worked for years in restaurant kitchens of all kinds in Mexico but I headed to the UK and joined the team at The Mexican restaurant in Ware, north of London. Under the direction of head chef Elio Mendoza, I honed my skills then he went on to share my CV with La Choza so I had the potential to take what I’d learned and develop my own twist on the Mexican kitchen.
It’s fantastic to be working in a restaurant where quality, provenance and true authenticity for the cuisine of my homeland is not only promoted but also celebrated and respected. I really feel that my cooking style will add to the menu of La Choza and I appreciate how receptive Aoife, Annie and the whole team have been to my dishes and ideas. There is so much depth and breadth to the cuisine of Mexico– that is so misunderstood, misrepresented and simplified in Europe – so I’m really excited to be be sharing that here in my new home town of Brighton. Come say hi at La Choza!
La Choza will be celebrating a week of the annual The Day of the Dead – Dia de los Muertos – from 28 October. For one-off menus, dishes and cocktails, family-friendly events and Mariachi band dates visit www.lachoza.co.uk
La Choza, 36 Gloucester Road, Brighton BN1 4AQ
01273 945926 • www.lachoza.co.uk
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