Seafront seafood with real character

Joanne, Dylan and Russell Jnr at the Brighton Shellfish and Oyster Bar in the Fishing Quarter

It’s fair to say that Brighton is full of colourful characters, although on the whole I wouldn’t say that particularly applies to the hospitality industry which often takes itself way to seriously in my opinion, writes Nick Mosley.

Early last week I popped by The Winkle restaurant in the Kings Road Arches to have a rather pokey vesper martini with owners Owen and PJ to celebrate their recent reopening and have a nosey at their new summer season menus – review coming soon – when a larger than life chap appeared at the bar.

I must say, having just returned from having a tinkle at the Winkle, I thought he was arguing about something he’d ordered then I clocked that he was wearing a work shirt and owned one of the neighbouring eateries.

And so began our slightly bizarre and rambling conversation that then led me last Friday to a tour of Russell Griggs’ seafood mini empire on Brighton seafront, with Little Miss Greedy Guts in tow as there wasn’t a chance she’d miss out on cod and chips.

You’d be hard pushed to find a more self-depreciating, dry-humoured individual than Russell who clearly has an impressive work ethic having been born into a hospitality family that his son – aptly named Russell too – is continuing.

It was to Russell Jnr’s wonderful Shellfish and Oyster Bar stand in the Fishing Quarter that I headed first to sample the plethora of pots of fresh prawns, cockles and winkles alongside dressed crab, shucked oysters and stuffed crab and prawn rolls that are made before your very eyes. There’s nothing fancy here – its good old salt-of-the-earth seaside, pocket-friendly fayre – but I really don’t think you can beat snacking on seafood with the sea lapping in front of you and the jolly tunes of the carousel organ drifting on the breeze.

Russell and his chips at By The Beach Fish and Chips in Brighton

Before I scoffed down too much crab, I waddled back in the direction of Shelter Hall to Russell’s clearly very popular fish and chip shop – ‘By The Beach Fish and Chips’ – located in the Kings Road Arches. Clearly not the most inventively named chippy but there’s nothing wrong with being literal.

Over a quick beer in the neighbouring Tempest bar, I drilled down into Russell’s history. He’s always had a soft spot for Brighton with his family once owning a rock shop on the upper promenade but his catering career has taken him to the London Olympics, Europe – including a massive Michael Jackson concert back in the day – Winter Wonderland in Hyde Park and more music festivals than you could shake a sausage at.

But before Greedy Guts and I dived into a steaming, vinegary tray of the good stuff, a little tour of the shop was in order. Now I’ve handmade chips before at home but if I’m honest I usually just buy a bag at the supermarket as deep fat frying at home is a bit of a faff. Producing industrial scale chips is another – excuse the pun – kettle of fish altogether.

A bag of potatoes is a hefty 25kg and on his very best days of the year, Russell’s team can clear 750kg of them. Now that’s a lot of spuds. They always buy British, and Russell thinks that Cornish potatoes are the finest but they aren’t always available.

The demo began with the potatoes washed and peeled in a machine that is akin to an upright washing machine before being sliced in seconds into recognisable chips. They are then rinsed in fresh water for a while to remove as much starch as possible before being air dried and ready to hit the fryer. At By The Beach they fry with rapeseed oil, although different chippies have varying preferences on their oil choice.

Russell says that the main thing about the oil is that its clean otherwise it will negatively impact the flavour of the chips. They filter the oil daily and its replaced once around 15-20 bags of potatoes have been fried in it.

Cod and scampi with chips at By The Beach Fish and Chips on Brighton seafront

The menu is fairly succinct but has all the classics: scampi, whitebait, fish cakes, squid rings, battered sausage and white fish. As Russell relies on local supplier Fish Galore, it's dependent on the day as to whether the fish is cod or haddock but both are always line caught rather than trawler catch.

Unfortunately for me, they don’t do gluten free fish however the chips are fried separately so there is minimal risk of cross-contamination. Greedy Guts went all out with cod, scampi, chips, tartare sauce and a curry sauce with more than a hint of spicy kick to it. She relayed that it was some of the best fish and chips she’d eaten in town, and that at the price – £13.50 – for the quality she’d definitely be back. High praise indeed from a Brighton-born gal.

I was more than happy with my steaming tray of perfect chip shop chips. Lightly golden, firm yet fluffy and steaming hot. The top tip being to the salt the chips first, close the box, give it a shake then add lashings of either onion or malt vinegar depending on your preference. Add a little wooden fork, sea air and I found my own chip heaven.

By The Beach Fish and Chips, 158 Kings Road Arches, Brighton BN1 1NB

Brighton Shellfish and Oyster Bar, Fishing Quarter, Brighton BN1 1NB