Review of Camellia at South Lodge

Sea bass ceviche with Nutbourne tomatoes at Camellia at South Lodge, Sussex

There are a handful of 5* country house hotels across Sussex that, quite frankly, knock the socks off the hotels to be found in Brighton, write Nick Mosley.

These former estates – once owned by the aristocracy or self-made industrialists – became too costly for many once-wealthy families to maintain so have transferred into private schools, residential homes and – luckily for us – rather swanky hotels with destination dining, top-notch health and spa facilities, golf courses and, naturally, world-class service.

South Lodge, located approximately half way between Haywards Heath, is one of my personal favourites having enjoyed numerous visits over the past 20 years or so. Suffice to say the 96 elegant bespoke designed bedrooms, suites and recently added lakeside lodges exude quintessential English style with a mix of heritage and contemporary touches.

However the jewel in the crown for me has always been South Lodge’s two fine dining restaurants; the 1* Michelin The Pass – headed up by chef Ben Wilkinson – and sister restaurant the 3 AA rosette Camellia that is led by the undoubtably talented chef Josh Mann. Looking back, many luminaries of the British culinary world have rattled the pots and pans including Ian Swainson, Matt Gillan, Tom Kemble, Greg Clarke, Tom Hamblet and Steven Edwards.

It was to the Camellia restaurant that I headed with my sister on a gloriously warm and sunny early May evening.

But, first things first, we took a stroll around the grounds and had a good old nosey at the Botanica spa; a stunning 44,000 square feet complex of relaxation including outdoor wild-swimming pool, steaming hot tubs, indoor pool, wet spa facilities, gym and treatment rooms. Access is limited to hotel guests and a handful of yearly members so its rather exclusive but undoubtably the one of the best facilities in the UK.

After an envious guided tour of ways to detox at South Lodge, I had a a thirst for a little re-tox so time for a Brighton Gin dry martini for me and a Sapling sustainable vodka martini for my sister on Camellia’s garden terrace as the sun set over the Downs before being guided to a window table in the restaurant.

Dry aged loin of Sussex lamb at Camellia at South Lodge, Sussex

The dining room is light and airy, with oak wood panelling and tones of burgundy and grey across the elegant furniture and floral motif wallpaper. Its a design that feels relevant whilst also sympathetic to the heritage of the property.

Unlike The Pass which features tasting menus, Camellia’s menu is three courses. I’m not knocking tasting menus – I’ve had some pretty amazing ones over the past year including Ben’s at The Pass – but I increasingly prefer something a little more straightforward so the choice of five starters, mains and desserts was very welcome.

As you’d expect from a restaurant of this calibre, dishes are packed with seasonal produce from Sussex and the wider bounty to be found in the British isles such as Wye Valley asparagus, Dorset crab, Sussex lamb and various south coast fish. The hotel also has a kitchen garden so fruits, vegetables and herbs are on hand for the chefs every day, and I’m sure there is a little foraging to be had on the hotel estate too.

I began with a ceviche of citrus cured sea bass with pickled wild garlic and Nutbourne heritage tomatoes. If you’ve not experienced the joys of Nutbourne tomatoes from West Sussex before then you’ve been missing out; whenever I see them on a menu then my mind is made up as they are genuinely one of the most delicious, flavourful things you can pop in your mouth.

For my main, it had to be Sussex lamb with mint gravy – ’tis the season after all. It’s a meat that isn’t for everyone but I can hand-on-heart say the loin of dry aged lamb was melt in the mouth with no notes of fat that so often put people off. It was accompanied by a mini cottage pie with pecorino cheese and panko crumb; this was rich but incredibly moreish, made even more so by a splash of Gentleman’s Relish. Thankfully, it was just a small pan as if it had been bigger my eyes would’ve boggled and I suspect my belly would have wobbled on the walk out.

Earl Grey pannacotta at Camellia at South Lodge, Sussex

We were feeling rather sated so we shared a dessert; an uplifting dessert of pannacotta infused with Earl Grey tea, gently sour dehydrated yogurt crumb, bergamot ice cream and both fresh and candied orange. A triumph of texture and flavour layering.

The service style is relaxed and approachable. The team will engage with you as discreetly or personally as you wish, which demonstrates a real understanding of individual diners. Equally, for fine dining, the overall ambiance and background music is pleasantly jovial rather than stuffy; there is none of the hushed reverence that so often can make dining a little uncomfortable.

The three course evening dining menu including homemade bread and hand churned butter to start and petit fours and coffee to finish is priced at £90. There is also a very well-priced daytime terrace menu – fish and chips and burgers for around £20 – and also a Sunday lunch menu with three courses for £55. The kitchen is allergen aware so can adapt dishes but – as always – its best to notify of any dietary requirements when you book.

My dinner at Camellia was one of the most relaxing and delicious meals of my year thus far. It genuinely is one of the best dining experiences to be had in Sussex.

Nick Mosley

Camellia at South Lodge, Brighton Road, Horsham RH13 6PS

01403 892 235 • www.exclusive.co.uk