Review of Ebb: New restaurant serves clever, playful twist with local produce

Head chef Charlie Simmons of Ebb in Worthing with his kitchen brigade

Worthing’s dining scene is on the up-and-up, writes Nick Mosley.

I try to get along to Brighton’s neighbour every couple of months for a look around. From chez Mosley in west Hove, its about 20 minutes on the Coastliner 700 bus which is typically less time than it takes to get to Brighton Marina.

Worthing serves up something for everyone when it comes to food and drink. Craft beers, coffee shops a-plenty, family-owned restaurants and – increasingly – what I’d say is destination dining that seems to be starting to actually stick.

I think its fair to say that the contemporary dining revolution was kicked started by Johnny Stanford’s Tern restaurant on Worthing Pier back in summer 2023. And it was to that very location that I returned in mid-June to review the new incumbent Ebb.

Now I have to point out that Tern hasn’t closed; its merely relocated to the hustle and bustle of Warwick Street. Its a fantastic location in the heart of town and from a quick afternoon natter and cocktail – a mighty fine pickled radish martini – with Johnny and partner Sophie, they are going from strength to strength with the main restaurant and very cool basement cocktail and bites bar. But thats a story for another day.

Curing Rebels coppa with melon and pickled chillies at Ebb in Worthing

We were on an early sitting at Ebb so waddled towards the pier. I was familiar to entering the upstairs restaurant of the south pavilion using the main door which opens onto the expanse of the ground floor casual dining space of Perch. Which was unfortunate as the stench of old cooking oil coming from Perch’s kitchen was so overwhelming it would put a backstreet kebab shop to shame. No idea what was going on there but rather offensive to the senses.

Thankfully, that miasma doesn’t pervade upstairs – now accessed via a separate external stairway that might need a bit of clearer signposting – and it was lovely to receive a hearty friendly welcome from general manager Ella who offered a choice of either regular dining tables or a high stool along the panoramic windows. We choose the latter as one of the stars of the Ebb show is undoubtedly the epic views of the south coast.

Ebb on Worthing Pier

The venue has had a considerable refurbishment with nods to art deco, although the open kitchen remains. We were on an early seating so I can’t truly relay the clientele but I’d say mostly couples, ranging from late 20s to more mature years. There was definitely a first or second date on the table alongside us that didn’t seem to be going too well.

The kitchen is headed by affable chef Charlie Simmons who despite his youthful years has already had a rather prolific career in premium kitchens across Sussex. Most recently that includes the sous chef role at Chalk at Wiston Estate, but he’s also developed his craft at The Pass at South Lodge, The Tasting Room at Rathfinny Estate and Horsted Place Hotel.

Butter poached halibut at Ebb on Worthing Pier

Whilst we scanned the menu, my sister and I sipped on very clean dry vodka martinis. The card is built around locally made, farmed and fished produce with the menu stating the dishes are made for sharing. Prices start at £6, but I’d say on average you’re paying around £10 per dish with six dishes ideal for a meal. So it's not going to break the bank. There are vegetarian options and around half the menu can be adapted for gluten free diners.

Chef Charlie has clearly put a lot of thought into how to differentiate his Sussex produce led menu from those of his contemporaries. Without being overwhelming – and definitely not clichéd – there is genuine playfulness with dishes with some fantastic retro nods.

To nibble, whipped cod roe with homemade prawn cocktail crisps. I loved this; simple, tasty and great fun.

The ever-reliable Curing Rebels coppa ham was accompanied by galia melon, pickled chillies and cracked black pepper. This did seem a bit of random confection of elements – where certain flavours could overwhelm – but it was a genuinely harmonious dish. Its the kind of thing I’d want to pick on whilst I watch telly on the sofa on Sunday afternoon.

Tomatoes from Nutbourne – easily the most flavoursome tomatoes you’ll find locally – with elderflower salad cream and flamed endive. For a salad, this was actually rather rich and, again, that retro nod to salad cream tied in what increasingly seemed to be Charlie’s emerging signature style.

Ecuadorian vanilla custard with Kent strawberries at Ebb

I’m genuinely torn as to whether the dessert or the butter poached halibut with garlicky, shellfish and sea vegetable buerre blanc crowned with roasted padrón peppers were my favourite dishes. The fish was hands-down the best I’ve eaten since reviewing Brighton’s Maré last year. Beautifully flavoursome flakes of perfectly cooked white fish and an unctuous sauce that was far from one-dimensional.

However – as not a massive fan of desserts – I think the Ecuadorian vanilla custard with Kent strawberries, sorbet and elderflower topped with cigarillos of meringue just about pipped the fish to the post which is high praise from this reviewer. Essentially a deconstructed trifle – with the meringue suggesting sticks of rock – the flavours and textures were spectacular and again leaned into light-hearted food nostalgia.

Comparing Tern and Ebb is akin to comparing apples and oranges. The cooking style and restaurant ambiance are significantly different. I have no doubt that Ebb is the restaurant where Charlie will establish his reputation as a uniquely talented head chef in the south of England.

Ebb, Worthing Pier, Marine Parade, Worthing BN11 3PX

www.ebb.restaurant