Review of Fumi: An impressive, elevated afternoon tea

Afternoon Tea at FUMI in Brighton

Regular readers of my Taste reviews may recall I first visited Fumi in Circus Street a year or so back, writes Nick Mosley.

Its a Japanese restaurant – unlike any other in Sussex – that’s open daily from noon until late. The space is very unique – with its soaring ceilings and very chic minimalist interiors it could easily be sat within a five star hotel somewhere a lot more glamorous than the borders of Kemp Town. There’s certainly no restaurant space in Brighton that’s comparable.

Yet whilst decor certainly helps set the scene for a meal, its the food and drink that really count and thankfully Fumi doesn’t disappoint, in fact I’d say my first review meal was head and shoulders above any Japanese eatery I can think of in our wee corner of England. Portions were generous, the plating is a work of art, the ingredients incredible quality and – most importantly – everything was served at the right temperature. There’s nothing worse than fridge cold sashimi.

Anyway, as much as I’d have been more happy with the a la carte menu and a flask of piping hot sake, on this occasion it was time for tea.

I guess when we think of afternoon tea nowadays its a very British thing, and often savoured in hushed voices in swanky hotels. Incidentally, in my humble opinion, the only decent traditional afternoon tea in Sussex is to be had at The Grand in Eastbourne where every element is made freshly every day.

However if there is one country in the world that has a proper tea culture then surely it has to be Japan where over the centuries their tea ceremonies have become a fine art. I’ve had the privilege of experiencing formal tea ceremonies in Japan in the past and the social etiquette is complex to an outsider. But, no fear, Fumi’s afternoon tea is very much along the lines of what you’d expect here in the UK although with their unique far east twist.

FUMI in Brighton

To start, I enjoyed a glass of Champagne with classic brioche notes and a wonderfully fine perlage and creamy mousse. My dining partner in crime, Little Miss Greedy Guts unexpectedly went for a mocktail, although to be fair to her we had an impromptu evening slamming martinis and margaritas at Hotel du Vin the day before so both of us were feeling a little constitutionally delicate.

Although I’m very aware of conscious drinking choices, I typically wouldn’t order a mocktail over – say – a decent kombucha or simple sparkling water with citrus. I find that bartenders on the whole don’t really put much love into them however that was definitely not the case at Fumi. A very well considered and balanced liquid confection of pear, ginger and vanilla that was on the right side of sweet and beautifully refreshing. A perfect example of the detail that the Fumi team put into all of their offerings.

Afternoon Tea sweet treats and hand-blended tea at FUMI in Brighton

Whilst we nattered, a rather jolly platter of matcha tea cakes with homemade mixed berry compote and crème fraîche. Completely gluten free, they were as light as a cloud with a pleasing crisp to the outer. A thoughtful twist on the oft-claggy English scone.

The pièce de résistance of any afternoon tea is obviously the tiered presentation of dainty savoury and sweet treats, and Fumi’s doesn’t disappoint. Rather than a cake stand, their mini dishes are presented in what I can best describe as an open shelf or cupboard with each slot a welcome visual and olfactory assault on the senses.

I really can’t go into every single dish – pulled short rib beef bao bun, grilled aubergine with miso, karaage chicken, nigiri, ebi fry shrimp – but it was all devoured with gusto. I wasn’t a fan of the five spice cauliflower but then again I don’t like cauliflower so it would be a culinary miracle if I’d been converted. My personal highlight was a fried maki roll with chicken, avocado and mango dressing; sometimes simple is best.

Although by this stage of proceedings we were pretty stuffed, there was more to come with a round of sweet dishes and a pot of light and uplifting hand blended jasmine and flower tea. The cakes were utterly heavenly – and all gluten free. I think its the most cream I’ve ever eaten at a single sitting but it didn’t feel in any way heavy.

Afternoon tea is available every Saturday and Sunday from noon until 5pm. Priced at £55 per person including a glass of Champagne, alongside the regular offering they can also do strictly pescatarian, vegan or – in my case – adapt a couple of the small dishes to accommodate gluten intolerance.

Little Miss Greedy Guts and I had a wonderful couple of hours. Every element felt elevated, theatrical and super-premium. Fumi genuinely delivers bang for your buck and I really can’t think of a better way to while away a lazy afternoon in Brighton.

Fumi, 1 Circus Street, Brighton, BN2 9QF

01273 064 516 • www.fumi.restaurant